Love Crack 5.12b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | Bob Parrot Barry Rugo Rob Adair Andy Ross |
| Submitted By: | matthew ritter on May 1, 2012 |
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love crack. the whole thing doesnt fit in the phot...
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Description Climb the right leaning crack on amazing and fun jams to crack's end. Start as low as possible down there. When the crack ends face climb straight up (crux) to a bolt around the corner. Two options exist from here, climb the left face up to the top or continue up the right face and cracks to a shallow tip layback corner and a thin face moves. Lot's of great climbing! Pine tree anchor. I didn't see a bolt anchor.
Location "on the steep and impressive buttress between SHAKE AND BAKE and CIRCUS." Right of "IRON LUNG"
Protection cams, nuts, a bolt, tree anchor
By john strand
From: southern colo
May 1, 2012
| I almost forgot this one.. great route to flop on. A real onsight ascent would be very impressive. |
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
May 2, 2012
| Is that the 'belfry' beneath it? I think I remember walking over there. I also remember a cool mixed stemming corner and I never could find the raptor roof, which sounds cool. |
By matthew ritter
May 2, 2012
| no john,it is john right? "belfry" is further left. Iron Lung climbs just left of the wide crack, at the far left of photo |
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
May 4, 2012
| yes and thanks matt |
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