This is a direct start to the Love Route and contains one of the best pitches on Hallett. It ascends the center of the large triangular buttress that is to the left of the Love Route's initial dihedrals.
P1. From a large grassy ledge to the left of the start of the Love Route, easy 5th class leads to a ledge that runs across the lower part of the buttress. Follow this left to the middle of the buttress at a convenient belay tree next to the wall.
P2. Head up to a small tree about 30' up the wall, continue up then angle right along a weakness then back left to belay in a small, right-facing dihedral that goes through a bulge 200' above and slightly left of the start of the pitch. 5.10b R. This outstanding pitch is one of the best if not the best on Hallett.
P3/4. Continue 250' directly up the buttress on 4th and easy 5th class rock to connect to the Love Route at the white band.
RPs, Stoppers and cams to 3".
|By Eli Helmuth|
From: Estes Park, CO
Sep 2, 2008
Topher Donahue with client made the FA in 2000 of a line up the center of the triangular buttress which finished on the left edge of the Love Route roof. He called it "Lust Route" aka 'Bold is Love' -10a. The R rating is pretty much a given for any route on Hallett.
You can find him at alpinecreative.com I remember his saying it was the best route he had done on Hallett...
Always tough with Hallett figuring out what major features have been climbed and not?
|By Ken Duncan|
Sep 4, 2008
Just talked to Topher and he did guide a client up this and the left-facing dihedral above calling it Bold is Love.