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Love and Rockets 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mike Pont
Page Views: 454
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Nov 16, 2001
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Description 

This is the left of the two 5.12 routes that climb out the right side of the vertical panel beneath the roof band. It climbs an aesthetic blue/grey streak on steeper-than-it-looks rock and has some pretty in-your-face moves in a couple of spots.

Tricky for the grade but a worthy tick nonetheless. Scramble out right on the dirty ledge (your belayer should possible be either anchored in or one tier below you on the ground) and pull on via pockets. Up, up and away!


Protection 

8-10 bolts.



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By Jeremy H
Aug 2, 2007
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

A huge hold has broken off and made this route harder.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Aug 3, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

Yeah, there is now a very hard move right at the start, maybe one move after you leave the ledge. I assume this is where the hold broke. The new sequence involves a big dyno from a horrible crimp. This would probably be a 12c move if it were higher on the route, but IMO, since it comes right off the start, I would still vote for 12b, although I'll gladly take the 12c if others disagree :)

If your belayer is not on the ledge, I would highly recommend stick clipping the 1st two bolts, since most people will not on-sight this move. Actually, especially if your belayer is on the ledge, stick clip at least two bolts. Still a great route!