Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Bauhaus Wall
Kelty Salida 4 Tent - 4 Person3 Season

$229.99 25% off

$172.49

at AlsSports

4    more...
Patagonia Men's Primo Pants

$399.00 50% off

$199.50

at Patagonia

34    more...
Zion Haul Bag

$199.95 25% off

$149.96

at CampSaver

6    more...
Giro Reverb Bike Helmet

$59.99 25% off

$44.99

at AlsSports

70    more...
Sugoi RC Pro Bike Short Liner

$54.99 20% off

$43.99

at AlsSports

   more...
Five Ten Newton Lace-Up Climbing Shoe

$153.90 40% off

$92.34

at DeptOfGoods

215    more...
MSR Base 2 Pot Set

$54.99 30% off

$38.49

at AlsSports

2    more...
Patagonia Men's Roving Pants

$79.00 50% off

$39.50

at Patagonia

60    more...
 more Dirtbag Deals
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brothers Carrutherzov, The 
Choss Temple Pilots 
Der Squeal 
Der Stihl 
Girl Talk 
Gomorrah 
Gropius 
Huge 
Hurl Jam 
Ice Man Cometh 
Liquid Culture 
Love and Rockets 
Motley Cruise 
Roadside Prophet 
Sigue Sigue Sputnik 
Squeal to Stihl 
Twisted Sister 

Love and Rockets 

5.12b

   
418 page views
Good page?   

Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus: 5.12 [details]
FA: Mike Pont
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Nov 16, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

This is the left of the two 5.12 routes that climb out the right side of the vertical panel beneath the roof band. It climbs an aesthetic blue/grey streak on steeper-than-it-looks rock and has some pretty in-your-face moves in a couple of spots.

Tricky for the grade but a worthy tick nonetheless. Scramble out right on the dirty ledge (your belayer should possible be either anchored in or one tier below you on the ground) and pull on via pockets. Up, up and away!


Protection 

8-10 bolts.



Comments on Love and Rockets Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeremy H
Aug 2, 2007
rating: 5.12c

A huge hold has broken off and made this route harder.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Aug 3, 2009
rating: 5.12b

Yeah, there is now a very hard move right at the start, maybe one move after you leave the ledge. I assume this is where the hold broke. The new sequence involves a big dyno from a horrible crimp. This would probably be a 12c move if it were higher on the route, but IMO, since it comes right off the start, I would still vote for 12b, although I'll gladly take the 12c if others disagree :)

If your belayer is not on the ledge, I would highly recommend stick clipping the 1st two bolts, since most people will not on-sight this move. Actually, especially if your belayer is on the ledge, stick clip at least two bolts. Still a great route!