A fun route with some strenuous moves and some of that I-really-don’t-want-to-fall-right-now feeling.
Climb to the third bolt on easy terrain then bear right into the steep corner. Clip the fourth bolt and the fun begins. Stem, crimp, hold on for dear life and clip the fifth bolt. Look up to the sixth bolt, decide there’s no way, then make a tenuous move to your right and the arete. Breath easier and continue up through the sixth bolt and to the anchors. Lower or rap back to the belay.
Since this is on the northeast of George it is in the shade in the afternoon. It was comfortable even on a 90 degree day.
Overall a fun route but the best part is quite short.
Get to George’s lowest, northeast belay (two hanger-and-ring anchors) via George Direct, the first pitch of Lounge Lizards, or by scrambling up some dicey terrain to the east. Follow the bolts up the “broken staircase”.
6 bolts, hanger-and-ring anchors at both start and end.
|By Perin Blanchard|
From: Orem, UT
Jun 18, 2007
I thought this might be a bit harder than 5.8 - but I got the rating from rc.com and am loathe to highlight my ineptitude. I must confess, however, that I didn't climb this clean. I took after clipping the 5th bolt - the only 5.8 I've ever hung on (well, other than Chicago Overhang).
|By Christian "crisco" Burrell|
From: PG, Utah
Nov 22, 2007
Nah...solid 5.8. Did this with DK and Steve B. during the FA and should be the standard finish. Sure you have to lower off but the exposure and climbing is so rad is worth it. You have to stem out over the void as you move right! WA-HOO!
|By Tristan Higbee|
Jul 30, 2008
Hi, my name is Tristan... And I had to take on this route, too.
Great line, though.