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Mill Creek Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Dreams  
Bulge to Groove 
Dirty Boulevard, The 
Face (left of Freeway) 
Honey Pot 
Jug Haul 
Lou Reed (5.12/AO) 
Pit of Despair, The 
Roof Rack 
Scantily Trad 
Sweet Petite 

Lou Reed (5.12/AO) 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

Type: Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: RMWright, Fall 2013
New Route: Yes
Season: Typical of Mill Creek Crag
Page Views: 148
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 20, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: Lou Reed follows the rope on the right.

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While I was never a fan of the Velvet Underground, I loved Lou Reed. It's always momentous to loose one of our iconoclasts and Lou Reed died in October 2013 after 40 years in the RR business. LR takes a very steep course through the roof system via mostly 5.11 climbing before a very hard boulder crux (A0) getting past bolt 5. A cam placement is very nice in the small roof above bolt 6. Things stay solid at 5.11 above bolt 6 and deliver a final big move at the last bolt (5.10+). LR is very continuous and does not let up until you get to the chains. The rock is largely excellent top to bottom.


Start 25 feet right of Scantily Trad.


Seven quickdraws, a mid-size cam (a green link cam works or #2 or #1.5 Friend), and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos of Lou Reed (5.12/AO) Slideshow Add Photo
Another shot of Lou Reed which follows the right side rope. The rap line on the left comes off the Scantily Trad anchor.
Another shot of Lou Reed which follows the right s...
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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Nov 20, 2013

Lou Reed got squeezed in between snow storms in the middle of November. It was actually bolted while the snow was falling. The crux getting past bolt 5 remains an A0 project at this point, but it provides great incentive to tone up the dynamic bouldering moves this winter. Looks like a lot of time on the campus board at DBC. The redpoint crux will be a solid number grade or more harder than climbing before and after bolt 5. The crux is a dynamic power crimp and throw through a steep bulge. It starts on good feet, but they are lost quickly.

One note of caution: the crimp at bolt 6 is thin and could be crushed if it stood upon. After standing up above bolt 6, it is best to stand on the super solid ledge and not on the crimp.