|Mill Creek Crag
While I was never a fan of the Velvet Underground, I loved Lou Reed. It's always momentous to loose one of our iconoclasts and Lou Reed died in October 2013 after 40 years in the RR business. LR takes a very steep course through the roof system via mostly 5.11 climbing before a very hard boulder crux (A0) getting past bolt 5. A cam placement is very nice in the small roof above bolt 6. Things stay solid at 5.11 above bolt 6 and deliver a final big move at the last bolt (5.10+). LR is very continuous and does not let up until you get to the chains. The rock is largely excellent top to bottom.
Start 25 feet right of Scantily Trad.
Seven quickdraws, a mid-size cam (a green link cam works or #2 or #1.5 Friend), and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.
Another shot of Lou Reed which follows the right s...
|Comments on Lou Reed (5.12/AO)
|By Richard M. Wright|
From: Lakewood, CO
Nov 20, 2013
Lou Reed got squeezed in between snow storms in the middle of November. It was actually bolted while the snow was falling. The crux getting past bolt 5 remains an A0 project at this point, but it provides great incentive to tone up the dynamic bouldering moves this winter. Looks like a lot of time on the campus board at DBC. The redpoint crux will be a solid number grade or more harder than climbing before and after bolt 5. The crux is a dynamic power crimp and throw through a steep bulge. It starts on good feet, but they are lost quickly.
One note of caution: the crimp at bolt 6 is thin and could be crushed if it stood upon. After standing up above bolt 6, it is best to stand on the super solid ledge and not on the crimp.