|Lots of Balls Slab
|The Grist Mill was recently closed to public access by the Wasatch Cache National Forest Service. MORE INFO >>>|
A goofy name for a pretty nice area. This crag is sunny and secluded. The rock is more coarse than is typically found in LCC. The slab is highly featured however. As you approach you start to wonder why you hiked up here to climb, everything looks so broken! Keep going, the slabs are actually quite fun, and hidden from the bottom!
This area saw ascents as early as the 60's. However due to lack of information out there a few of the old routes may have been equipped over. This is a great reason why we should try to document what has been climbed. This is by no means a reason not to visit this area however. If you like moderate slab climbing, emphasis on moderate, you'll love this area. The rock isn't too gritty, and here and there it is red and orange with patina all over!
Park at the Grist Mill, 0.55 miles east of the Park & Ride lot.
Walk down to the western side of the fence on the Grist Mill property. Walk up into the trees. Find the power line road immediately in the trees. You can see a faint trail leading up a steep hill from the power lines. Take this. Keep an eye out for cut branches and faint trail. If you find the correct approach you will find in-situ ropes for helping you over a few obstacles which is nice. When you get to the toe of the slab, hang to the east side of it and scramble up the gully (passing another in-situ rope). Go for about 500+ feet and look for bolts on your left. There is a large vegetated gully that splits the slab. There is bolted lines on each side of this gully.
5 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Lots of Balls Slab
Amazing Grace 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
: Wasatch Range
: ... : Lots of Balls Slab
P1- Climb up a dirty crack on a slab beneath a small roof. From crack force yourself out left to a stance and a bolt. Clip the bolt and either go left or force yourself to commit to slabbing straight above the bolt (fun). Clip a bolt at a roof and climb over using big holds passing a belay rap anchor. Clip a few more bolts ramble up the slab passing a large ledge and one more bolt to semi hanging 2 ring belay/rap station. 5.7R 180'P2- Clip bolt just above the belay below the west facing dihedral...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
Local Information for Lots of Balls Slab
Latest Regional Forum Messages
|By James Garrett|
Nov 19, 2007
Now I don't think anybody can hold a candle to that kind of approach detail!.
Is the rock pretty good? Worth the hike?
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
Nov 20, 2007
This is a potentially quality, moderate, area. The trailwork on the approach changed it from Mt. Olympus style bushwack to easy dirt scramble. The rock is definitely gritty, but the climbing is generally mellow enough that your not sketching your brains out. Most crack are shallow and with TCU's and tipped out cams to be common gear choices. Runouts abound, but generally seem justified.
Originally several of these lines were originally variations on each other. This place could be/is variation central. Hopefully these will be quality additions to LCC.
Oh yeah- I lost a digital camera somewhere up there in the void (HP w/busted screen). I don't care much about finding the camera but would love the memory card (if it ever turns up) and the pictures of the sasquatch I saw...
Nov 22, 2007
The history of this seldom visited slab began in the 1960's
"The first routes on these slabs were probably done by Ted Wilson, Milt Hokanson, Dick Ream, Rich Ream in September of 1963"
"Easy slab climbs made by the Alpenbock in the early 1960s."