Let's get together outside. One weekend. 400 FREE REI outdoor classes and outings across the nation, July 30-31.
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Lost World Butte Area

Select Area...
Canyon Point Butte 
Cenotaph Spire 
Grim Reaper, The 
Lost World Butte 
Tombstone 
unnamed little tower 

Lost World Butte Area Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.7052, -109.9311 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,702
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: USBRIT on Feb 13, 2003
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Looking NW from the rock causeway that leads north...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Lost World Butte and the Tombstone have about 18 multipitch trad routes both aid and free.

Getting There 

Located off Spring Canyon Point Rd, about 30 minutes drive from Moab. Drive 8.5 miles up Rt 313 (Island in the Sky Road) to a road on the right between mile markers 14 and 15. At 1.5 miles take a right on Dudblinky Well and Spring Canyon Bottom Road. Follow for about 6 miles to just before the windmill on the right, and take the road left and pass the Tombstone formation. Take the first right after the Tombstone, and then the second right to a parking area on a flat rock at the end of road, about a quarter mile from the Butte.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.9 miles from here

24 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',4],['5.9',3],['5.10',8],['5.11',4],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lost World Butte Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lost World Butte Area:
Pearly Gates   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a C1     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 250'   Lost World Butte
Family Plot   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 340'   Tombstone
Rigor Mortis   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 340'   Tombstone
The Road Not Taken   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   Lost World Butte
The Epitaph   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 280'   Tombstone
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lost World Butte Area

Featured Route For Lost World Butte Area
Rock Climbing Photo: The setting out there is amazing

Thin It to Win It 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b  UT : Moab Area : ... : Canyon Point Butte
I'm gonna toss it out there that this may be one of the finest finger cracks in the Moab area. I was amazed to find it unclimbed. I attempted it once, on-sight from the ground, and sent it my 2nd try a few weeks later, also ground-up. For strong finger crack climbers it would certainly make a reasonable on-sight. I made a plaque, but left off the "+" just in case I was super-psyched and it turns out that others think it's easier. Feedback encouraged....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Lost World Butte Area Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Lost World Camp
The Lost World Camp
Rock Climbing Photo: The La Sal mountains from below the Tombstone.
The La Sal mountains from below the Tombstone.

Comments on Lost World Butte Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 12, 2003
Entrada?
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 16, 2003
Definitely Entrada - some is really good, and some is horrifying. Exercise care...
By USBRIT
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Sep 27, 2003
To Andrew . You picked about the worst section of rock in that area re pitch two Cenotaph Spire.. The other routes in the area are not quite as scarey!!
By ljh
Apr 4, 2011
Could (have?) any of the c1 routes been freed?
By USBRIT
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
May 4, 2011
I have not heard of any C1 being freed . I guess Family Plot might ? Coffin Doger , and maybe some of Lost World would go all free ?

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!