||Trad, 6 pitches, 650', Grade III
|Original: || YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R [details]|
|FA: ||Joseph Healy, Bill Coe, Karsten Duncan, et.al. FFA-Joseph Healy, Karsten Duncan|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||2,182|
|Submitted By: ||Healyje on Jan 23, 2006|
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Joseph above Loweball Slab (Pitch 5)
|Beacon Rock is open from July 15, 2016 through February 1st, 2017. See note for more details. MORE INFO >>>|
This new route occurred primarily by the vision and dedication of Joseph Healy in 2005. Its an adventurous climb with some serious sections and classic basalt features.
Pitch 1: 5.8 Climb the first pitch of Young Warriors. This pitch contains many bolts and several optional small gear placements low on the pitch.
Pitch 2: 5.9 From the top of pitch 1 of Y.W. climb straight above the slung p1 anchor until you can move right onto short ledge leading to a shallow right-leaning, left facing dihedral. Climb this dihedral and the arete formed by it until it turns vertical and then go straight up to a small ledge with bolted anchors.
Pitch 3: 5.11 This crux pitch goes up from the right end of the small ledge and up broad and steep left facing dihedral. Climb the diherdal until you can't free climb any higher and you'll be at a changing corners area. Either aid two moves or and traverse right around arete (crux). This move can be protected by a two medium size cam placed up in the underside of the angled slash going out right. Above the crux continue up and right. Once you reach a good ledge the pitch continues up and left straight up a rough looking face to a ledge and anchor above it. [However, up and right of the first good ledge is another anchor that can be used to bail the route with two ropes which will get you back down to the Boardwalk p1 anchor. This is effectively the last point to bail.]
Pitch 4: 5.10+ Move out right from the anchor up a steep slab and protect with loweballs and a pin to a steep mantle. Clip fixed pin and then climb up under a large roof. Pull roof through the left side slot and climb right and then left above the roof to an anchor on yellow rock in an low angle slab alcove.
Pitch 5: 5.9 Move left around a corner and up diagonally left angling cracks on a face to top out. The crux of this pitch is through an obvious confluence of cracks; at the crux there are three wedged shield shaped rocks which are slightly loose. Carefully use the leftmost rock and move up to the final moves which go slightly right to top out with an interesting twist. Head up to the large 'bonsai' looking tree and belay from there.
Pitch 6 / Descent: At the large bonsai tree you have reached the lower part of the overall high SE Corner ridge ramp. Continue up the ramp which joins with both the SE Face and Young Warriors routes for the final 6th pitch up the upper ramp. At the top of the ramp before the trees unrope. Exit left for about 30' (north, away from the river) and follow switchback trail up the guardrail and tourist trail and take it back down to the parking lot.
[ Note: the large bonsai tree at the top of the route was blown down during a storm in March 2010 and is no longer there. In it's place will be a large 30-40' scar in the lower corner ramp. ]
-1 set of wires (preferrably HB Brass and Alloy Offsets or DMM Alloy Offsets and small regular nuts),
-Double set of cams to #3 Camalot including #2 and #3 Ballnutz,
-quickdraws and long slings
-all anchors are large Metolius hangers
-shoes may be nice for walk-off
Joseph looking smooth on a steep roof during the F...
BETA PHOTO: Lost Warriors is the route in yellow