BETA PHOTO: Nazgul Wall on the left (main Mariuolumne Dome upp...
The well-named wall behind the right end of the Nazgul Wall.
With some newer routes, and only text descriptions in the Reid/Falkenstein guide, we thought we should describe the existing routes. Most of the newer routes are well-protected for Tuolumne, which means somewhat run out compared to most places.
Many of the routes are under a large square-cut roof (about 120' up) on the left side of the wall. To the left of this is a big stretch of wall with only one route, The Incredible Hulk, which is an old Bartlett/Bengston/Gerberding route which goes who knows where (the guide description doesn't match the rock too well...).
The square-cut roof dissolves on the right into overlaps on a headwall. There is a large flat base along most of the wall including the entire steep mid-section of the wall. The best landmarks for the steep mid-section are 1) the big trees on the right (Losing It starts here), 2) the huge tree on the left (Merely Misplaced starts here), and 3) the largest black streak, which is right of a small bushy tree (Where Your Eyes Don't Go). On the right end of this headwall there is a large flat ledge about 30' up, which goes from Runaway to Finders Keepers. It's 3rd class to get to the ledge from the right.
Routes left to right: Incredible Hulk, Merely Misplaced, Not All Who Wander, Lost With a GPS, Armed Knobbery, Lost Cause, Where Your Eyes Don't Go, Working For Peanuts, Losing It, Runaway, Terrorist, Rock Vixen, Finders Keepers, Losers Weepers.
Hike up gully right of Drug Dome, or climb anything on Medlicott to the top and hike up and left, or climb Hobbit Book and descend down and right...lots of approaches!
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lost Wall:
Fun climb up strange overlaps with a balancy crux (which is easier for those 6'2" or taller - I'm only 6' dang it!). The first pitch is a sport route, the second and third are trad.Second pitch is 5.9 past a couple bolts, then trad gear, head up flake to ledge, then up and left along horizontal cracks and past a black bulge to a bolted anchor at 105' (a long 60 might just make it on rappel - so use 70 or two ropes...). Third pitch is a 5.8 boulder problem off the belay ledge (don't fall), then e...[more]Browse More Classics in CA