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The Fin
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Andrology T,S 
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Dynamometer T,S 
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Edge of Time S,TR 
Lost Time T,S 
Slabbed Up-Side da Head S 

Lost Time 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Tom Kohlmann and Alan Robertson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,057
Submitted By: Tom Woods on Sep 16, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Looking upwards at the chimney/flake system at the...

Description 

This mixed trad and sport route begins about 10 feet to the left of Edge of Time. Climb up the right-facing chimney/flake system, protecting with medium to large size cams. The first bolt is about 8 feet above the top end of the chimney/flake system. Between the first and second bolts there is a nice horizontal crack that will accept C3s, Aliens or very small cams. The second and third bolts are well spaced. The difficulty of this climb may be height dependent (i.e., may feel like 5.8 to shorter persons instead of 5.7). I thought this climb was a 5.7, while my partner thought it was a 5.8.

Location 

This route is located on the Fin, just to the left of Edge of Time.

Protection 

3 bolts above chimney/flake system. Two twist link anchors at top.


Photos of Lost Time Slideshow Add Photo
Lost Time just above the chimney/flake system, and just below the first horizontal crack.
Lost Time just above the chimney/flake system, and...
Lost Time, nearing the top anchors.
Lost Time, nearing the top anchors.
This photo shows most of the route except for the lower portion of the chimney/flake system.
This photo shows most of the route except for the ...

Comments on Lost Time Add Comment
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By Russ Keane
Oct 3, 2014

Pretty fun! Not that hard. Definitely 5.7 at most. I like mixed climbs....
By Jim Fox
From: Westminster, CO
5 days ago
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Lead this yesterday. The bottom part was awkward but easy. About halfway up the crack/flake, I moved onto the face & felt it climbed better. The section above the crack was really fun. Not super hard but pretty sustained and lots of smaller edges/holds. Some high stepping and balancy. The bolts are spaced pretty far apart, which adds some spice to the climb. I didn't have a lot of gear with me and didn't have anything that would fit in the horizontal crack between the 1st and 2nd bolts, so I just ran it out. A Tricam or small cam/TCU would have been easy to place.
One of the more fun routes I've done at JP.
5.7+ or 5.8 sounds about right. We climbed this early afternoon & the sun glare above the flake was so bad I had to shield my eyes with my hand to see the holds and bolts above! Made it feel like 5.8 due to poor visibility.