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By George Bracksieck
Aug 17, 2015
Nothing on this page really addresses how to find the upper-middle ("Center Face") group of routes (six 50-foot climbs that begin from the same ledge). On each occasion in which I've approached and descended from the upper-left group ("Upper Tier"), I was unable to see a trace of the upper-middle group. Yesterday, we were ready to give up. Then we spied a bolt....
On the big curve in the highway, about 1/8 mile upstream from Animal World parking, we parked at the large pullout on the east (stream-side) side of the highway. There is a short, well-used trail going down to the creek, reaching the best, shallowest place to cross. I don't remember if the "10% grade" sign is there; l wasn't looking for it, because I've been there many times.
One way is to approach the upper-middle group is to approach the upper-left group. After crossing the creek, bushwhack in the downstream direction, past a low-level rock outcrop, eventually reaching a heavily vegetated slope before the big outcrop that holds the lower-left ("Lower Tier") group of climbs. Ascend to the right, up the vegetated slope, which narrows into a gully. Where this gully hits rock, steepens and narrows, an obvious gully branches left (north) and ascends along the base of the upper-left group of climbs. There is no "saddle."
Instead of heading north, bushwhack right (south), to a ledge that appears to go nowhere. Look up as you begin traversing the ledge, and you may see a bolt about 40 feet up. Keep traversing the ledge right, to its end in a slope. Move up and left onto a big sloping ledge. Traverse it north to the base of the upper-middle group. Three of these routes have bolts. The leftmost route begins a bit lower. This ledge is at the same elevation as the ledge where begin the highest routes of the upper-left group.
We descended to the south and down to the creek. This way would provide a more direct and less shrub- and boulder-infested approach to the upper-middle group.
BTW, the "Lower Tier," which includes Gomer Pyle, is far downstream from "Down and Right Face," which includes Salami Mami.