View of the main wall from the top of the approach...
Faces west, good afternoon sun and early morning shade. Various sport route, mixed, and three good trad climbs. Bring gear.
Lower tier, about 20' above river and 200' downstream of "10% grade" roadsign.
A. Fearless Leader
, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.
B. Gomer Pyle
, 7, 1p, 160', gear.
C. Unnamed Bulbous Face
, 8 or 9, 1p, 150' or 160', gear.
Upper tier up a gully left of L.
D. Skyline Arete
, 8+, 1p, 70', gear.
E. V Dihedral
, 8-, 1p, 70', gear.
FE. GV to VD
, 8+, 1p, 75', gear.
F. Good Vibrations
, 10-, 1p, 75', gear & bolts.
G. Blood Donor, 11, 1p, gear.
H. Right Leaning
, 9, 1p, 80', gear.
I. Misanthrope, 10, 1p, bolts & gear.
KJ. Blowing Raspberries
, 8+, 1p, 100', gear.
K. Lost Souls
, 8, 1p, 100', bolts +/- gear.
L. Unknown with Two Bolts
, 9+, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
M. ?No How, No Way?, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts.
N. The Escapist
, 11-, 1p, 50', gear & bolt.
O. Safety in Numbers
, 10, 1p, 40', gear.
P. My...Nice Knobs You Have
, 10+, 1p, 40', bolts & gear.
Q. Don't Panic
, 11- R, 1p, 50', gear.
, 11 PG-13, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
Down and Right Face
S. ?Joe the Lunger?, 11, 1p, 40', bolts.
T. Salami Mami
, 12-, 1p, 45', bolts.
U. Lost in a Lost World
, 10+, 10p, 50', bolts. Eds. It appears someone is deleting routes from the database. Please post to restore the database for the community.
Park one-eight of mile past the parking are for Animal World at a 10% grade sign on the creek side of the road.
For the upper areas:
Cross the creek at a boulder and then angle left up a short gully. Reach a saddle, and then continue going left on a ledge to the climbs.
For the lower routes:
From the "10% Grade" sign, walk downstream about 200' until you see the climbable-looking, west-facing rock that is very close to the river (about 20' vertical feet above it). Cross here to find Fearless Leader (left side), and Gomer Pyle (right side). Use the scree gully to the right of Gomer Pyle to access the other rocks in this area.
Climbing Season For the Boulder Canyon area.
Weather station 4.4 miles from here
18 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Lost Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lost Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lost Rock:
Featured Route For Lost Rock
Gomer Pyle 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b CO
: Boulder Canyon
: Lost Rock
This is a fun, inviting pitch with a grungier direct finish or more interesting variation finish to the right. We stumbled upon this after climbing Ashley's Roof on an explore day. Communicating with Kent Lugbill and Greg Hand, we were perhaps the 2nd group on the face.Ascend a fun slab to a triangular stance. Continue up with natural pro opportunities that seem to just appear almost whenever you think you want it. At ~70' up, there is a comfy ledge. You can continue straight u...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
By George Bracksieck
Aug 17, 2015
Nothing on this page really addresses how to find the upper-middle ("Center Face") group of routes (six 50-foot climbs that begin from the same ledge). On each occasion in which I've approached and descended from the upper-left group ("Upper Tier"), I was unable to see a trace of the upper-middle group. Yesterday, we were ready to give up. Then we spied a bolt....
On the big curve in the highway, about 1/8 mile upstream from Animal World parking, we parked at the large pullout on the east (stream-side) side of the highway. There is a short, well-used trail going down to the creek, reaching the best, shallowest place to cross. I don't remember if the "10% grade" sign is there; l wasn't looking for it, because I've been there many times.
One way is to approach the upper-middle group is to approach the upper-left group. After crossing the creek, bushwhack in the downstream direction, past a low-level rock outcrop, eventually reaching a heavily vegetated slope before the big outcrop that holds the lower-left ("Lower Tier") group of climbs. Ascend to the right, up the vegetated slope, which narrows into a gully. Where this gully hits rock, steepens and narrows, an obvious gully branches left (north) and ascends along the base of the upper-left group of climbs. There is no "saddle."
Instead of heading north, bushwhack right (south), to a ledge that appears to go nowhere. Look up as you begin traversing the ledge, and you may see a bolt about 40 feet up. Keep traversing the ledge right, to its end in a slope. Move up and left onto a big sloping ledge. Traverse it north to the base of the upper-middle group. Three of these routes have bolts. The leftmost route begins a bit lower. This ledge is at the same elevation as the ledge where begin the highest routes of the upper-left group.
We descended to the south and down to the creek. This way would provide a more direct and less shrub- and boulder-infested approach to the upper-middle group.
BTW, the "Lower Tier," which includes Gomer Pyle, is far downstream from "Down and Right Face," which includes Salami Mami.