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Unsorted Routes:

Lost Planet Airman 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Darryl Roth, Dave Dangle and Rich Aschert
Page Views: 1,766
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on May 4, 2001
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Description 

This is another great 2150 Route, just left of the namesake crack (2150 A.D.105750055 - 5.10d) and right of Taping Tendons (11d). It climbs through thin bouldery moves and continues through thin delicate moves to the top.


Protection 

7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of Lost Planet Airman Slideshow Add Photo
Thin.
Thin.
Crimpy.
Crimpy.
Almost there.
Almost there.
Sticky fingers.
Sticky fingers.
Comments on Lost Planet Airman Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 17, 2001

I first did (try) this route years ago but it was only rated .10d or so in my guidebook, and thought it was way hard at that grade.

By Lon Black
Dec 30, 2002

Crimpy and sustained. My guidebook had it at 11c, but it felt harder due to the sustained nature of it. There are probably more than 10 5.11 moves on this one. Definitely requires good footwork. Killer crimp strength wouldn't hurt either.

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 7, 2004

[Definitely] a solid 11b/c harder for shorter folk. due to the two rests i wouldn't have thought it harder...

By richard magill
May 8, 2005
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Continuous and fun! Lots of tricky sequences right off the ledge at the first bolt.

By Darryl Roth
Oct 27, 2009

So, I did the FA along with Dave Dangle and Rich Aschert. It seems that the grade has been the most disputed in the history of Shelf. The day that I did it, it seemed pretty easy. It's typical Shelf piss crimping, and I was light as a feather at the time (5'10" and 135 lbs) so it may have been a bit sparing on the grade, but not an intentional sandbag. Whatever it is, there seems a consensus that it is in the .11 range. Cool! There had to be one that got upgraded rather than the other way :)

By JasonT
Nov 8, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Super classic climb. I would definitely say 11b/c. Super sustained and probably one of the best of its grade at Shelf, IMHO. If you do not like crimps, stay away. 4 stars for sure.

By dancesatmoonrise
Dec 15, 2012

Darryl, you were just climbing waaay good back then!