Lost Planet Airman 5.11c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | Darryl Roth, Dave Dangle and Rich Aschert |
| Submitted By: | Jesse Ryan on May 4, 2001 |
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Crimpy.
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Description This is another great 2150 Route, just left of the namesake crack (2150 A.D.105750055 - 5.10d) and right of Taping Tendons (11d). It climbs through thin bouldery moves and continues through thin delicate moves to the top.
Protection 7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.
Thin.
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Almost there.
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Max working up Lost Planet Airman.
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Sticky fingers.
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| Comments on Lost Planet Airman |
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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 17, 2001
| I first did (try) this route years ago but it was only rated .10d or so in my guidebook, and thought it was way hard at that grade. |
By Lon Black
Dec 30, 2002
| Crimpy and sustained. My guidebook had it at 11c, but it felt harder due to the sustained nature of it. There are probably more than 10 5.11 moves on this one. Definitely requires good footwork. Killer crimp strength wouldn't hurt either. |
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 7, 2004
| [Definitely] a solid 11b/c harder for shorter folk. due to the two rests i wouldn't have thought it harder... |
By richard magill
May 8, 2005
rating: 5.11c
| Continuous and fun! Lots of tricky sequences right off the ledge at the first bolt. |
By Darryl Roth
Oct 27, 2009
| So, I did the FA along with Dave Dangle and Rich Aschert. It seems that the grade has been the most disputed in the history of Shelf. The day that I did it, it seemed pretty easy. It's typical Shelf piss crimping, and I was light as a feather at the time (5'10" and 135 lbs) so it may have been a bit sparing on the grade, but not an intentional sandbag. Whatever it is, there seems a consensus that it is in the .11 range. Cool! There had to be one that got upgraded rather than the other way :) |
By JasonT
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 8, 2009
rating: 5.11c
| Super classic climb. I would definitely say 11b/c. Super sustained and probably one of the best of its grade at Shelf, IMHO. If you do not like crimps, stay away. 4 stars for sure. |
By dancesatmoonrise
Dec 15, 2012
| Darryl, you were just climbing waaay good back then! |
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