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Maura Hahnenberger on Lost Pioneers
A pretty good climb that packs a punch despite being a fairly low angle corner. This route sports mostly good protection opportunities with mostly solid moves and stances. Although it may be a little "exciting" in certain places, it should be regarded as generally safe.
This route is in the obvious right-facing corner at the Northern-most end of the East side of the breadloaves- from the old-fashioned water pump, look up to the base. Climb this corner to a shoulder on the rock, well below the true summit, but still a long pitch, about 100'.
A standard light rack to 3". The anchor up top is a cordalette and webbing sling around a massive horn - rapping to the NW, over the top of the sub-feature that this route climbs. Take extra cord (30') in case this is in disrepair.
The route from the base.
Looking down on the fun offwidth with perfect fing...
The rappel anchor
|Comments on Lost Pioneers
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 15, 2007
Like Tony said, the route looks low angle from the ground...and it is but it's somewhat awkward. Good holds, takes gear (better than the PG13 rating) and is fun. Just before reaching the summit you have to climb using a somewhat offwidth crack on the right until you can gain some good finger locks for your left hand. Anchor as of 8/10/07 included the slung block with a slotted nut for a back up. Not sure if it's bomber, but I rapped on it!
From: Laramie, Wyoming
Jul 10, 2010
Varied, fun, and interesting route. More challenging than it looks from the ground, for sure. We walked off the west side which proved to be almost as spicy as the climb up.
|By Spencer Weiler|
From: SLC, UT
Jul 13, 2010
Excellent route! The climb's personality seemed to be plug some good gear, then run it as you mantle or reach through a thin section to a bomber rest. I felt the top offwidth was the crux as you have to lieback the finger crack while your feet smear on the arete till you can get inside the offwidth. Decking onto the ledge below seemed likely due to rope stretch. Exhilarating! Anchor is now two fixed nuts equalized.
|By Brian B Ballard|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 23, 2011
Great Route. We hiked to the No Cash Refunds Anchor and rapped from there..