The Lost Meadow Crags are an incredibly scenic collection of buttresses, slabs, and pinnacles in the northeast corner of the Park, high in the North Fork of the Big Thompson drainage. Specifically, they form a broken band of south-facing stones directly north of the established Lost Meadow Campsite.
Drive to the Dunraven Trailhead located in Roosevelt National Forest. From the town of Glen Haven, head east on Devil's Gulch Road for about 2 miles to a left turn onto County Road 51B aka Dunraven Glade Road. Drive 3 miles to the end of the road and park at the trailhead. The start of the trail is well marked on the west side of the lot. Please do not continue up the road past the gate without permission from Cheley Camps (970-586-4244).
Follow the trail for 8 miles or so, past the Stormy Peaks Trail junction, to the Lost Meadow Campsite. Permits are required and can be obtained at the backcountry office. From the campsite(s), the crags can be seen to the north.
The best way to approach the climbing is to head north from the west end of the smaller campsite. If camping at the group site, go north across the main trail to find the smaller site. Bushwack through dense forest and up a moraine to the base of the climbs.
Muff Mongler starts in a recessed crack system in the middle of the southwest face of Muff Mountain. P1 - 120 feet, 5.9. Climb the hand crack past some dense shrubs and a nice bulge to a second larger bulge. Muscle past the slot and continue up broken cracks to an adequate belay ledge. P2 - 60 feet, 5.10. Climb the wide crack off the belay to the base of the striking roof crack. Mongle your way out the roof with hands and wide hands, then step left onto the sizeable diving board and arrange a be...[more]Browse More Classics in CO