The Lost Meadow Crags are an incredibly scenic collection of buttresses, slabs, and pinnacles in the northeast corner of the Park, high in the North Fork of the Big Thompson drainage. Specifically, they form a broken band of south-facing stones directly north of the established Lost Meadow Campsite.
Drive to the Dunraven Trailhead located in Roosevelt National Forest. From the town of Glen Haven, head east on Devil's Gulch Road for about 2 miles to a left turn onto County Road 51B aka Dunraven Glade Road. Drive 3 miles to the end of the road and park at the trailhead. The start of the trail is well marked on the west side of the lot. Please do not continue up the road past the gate without permission from Cheley Camps (970-586-4244).
Follow the trail for 8 miles or so, past the Stormy Peaks Trail junction, to the Lost Meadow Campsite. Permits are required and can be obtained at the backcountry office. From the campsite(s), the crags can be seen to the north.
The best way to approach the climbing is to head north from the west end of the smaller campsite. If camping at the group site, go north across the main trail to find the smaller site. Bushwack through dense forest and up a moraine to the base of the climbs.
Nut Nibbler climbs the clean corner system on the south side of the tower. P1 - 5.10, 120 feet. Climb fists narrowing to fingers in the right-facing corner and step right at its top to a nice stance. Stem up the delicate corner (crux), and finish on a fun slab. P2 - 5.10, 30 feet. Undercling or stem out the laser cut corner above, and pull through with tight hands. Rappel 50 feet off the backside or downclimb lower 5th class....[more]Browse More Classics in CO