Lost in the Sun
||Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700', Grade III
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Luke Stefurak, James R, Keith S, Casey Z. Jonathan G.|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||3,213|
|Submitted By: ||Luke Stefurak on Aug 12, 2011|
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Luke just past the crux on the second pitch on Los...
Lost in the Sun links various features to the right of Red Dihedral. While some sequence can be hard to figure out I feel the climbing is a good amount of fun.
P1 - 5.11a - 35 meters. From the ground climb up 20 feet to get established in a clean corner. Jam, stem and layback your way up the crack (5.10-) as it pinches down from 2.5" to nothing. A steep section before the top (5.10+) leads to a stance where you must step left onto the face (crux) and then a few moves lead up to the anchor.
P2 - 5.11a - 20 meters. (2 Bolts) Stem off the belay and go up through a tiered roof and left to the crystal pocket (5.10+). Clip a bolt and face climb onto the slab. Another bolt and a micro cam allow passage to the left. Here you must downclimb with your feet on a left slanting offset to get to a right facing corner. Once in the corner work up (5.11a) until the crack widens. Before going too high swing/bear hug left around the arete to another crack and an obvious large foothold. Follow this crack as it pinches out (5.10) until you are able to gain face holds on the left and a two bolt belay.
P3 5.12a - 20 meters. (7 Bolts) From the belay step back right to the thin crack and climb past a bolt up until the crack pinches out. A hard sequence (5.11) leads to tenuous stance where you can clip the second bolt. More technical moves (5.11) on a pair of seams (past a another bolt) lead to an incut flake and a great rest. One more bolt and a mantel gain a no hands rest below the crux corner. A thin nut, a bolt and one good hold lead to the business. Expect laybacking, poor feet and first pad jamming (5.12-). The corner has one good opening before becoming a squeeze chimney. Take the strenuous but more straight forward option and layback the lip of the chimney (5.11+) past a bolt to a good hold. Continue laybacking until the crack narrows back to approximately .3 camalots with a few bigger pods. At a small roof face climb up and right. Once out of the corner traverse horizontally right, past a bolt, to the belay.
P5 - 5.11b/c - 37 meters. (2 Bolts) Traverse right ~8 feet and then climb straight up past a left facing corner and some fragile jugs (5.10-). Jam and layback up a pillar before face climbing up and left on jugs. Work up the two opposing flakes (5.10) until they start to pinch out. From a good stance layback up the right crack (5.10+) until the crack pinches out and you can clip a bolt. Try hard (5.11) for a few moves until the flake accepts gear again. Continue up past a jug (5.10+) and make a cool crack switch to the right and work onto a short slab (no hands rest). Stem out the roof (5.11-) and layback/stem past a bolt until you gain another jug near a wide crack. Layback up the corner until it becomes a holdless flare and thrash your way up (5.10++) until you can traverse straight left to the belay. Traversing earlier could be possible but on much worse holds.
P5 - 5.10c - 25 meters. From the belay step back to the right and climb up hollow flakes (5.10, nuts useful). Delicately work up and back left (5.10-) until good jugs lead up the middle of the face. Good pro and nice rests take you to a small roof. Pull up on secure fingerlocks to a stance below a thin crack (5.10). A few more 5.10 moves give way to juggy flakes and a wide crack in a corner. Pass this final obstacle and you are greeted with a great ledge. This is the last point you can rappel from without leaving gear.
P6 - 5.10+ - 50 meters? Climb up and right across the ledge to a short splitter crack. Work up, with some initial difficulties (5.10+) until you get good hand jams and can mantel onto a ledge. Work up and right, following the path of least resistance before working back left towards the 5.10 splitter of Red Dihedral. Potentially a long, wandering pitch. I have only cleaned and climbed the initial splitter.
Alternately for Pitch 6 you can climb up and left off the belay (5.9) and meet up with Red Dihedral earlier.
The 6th pitch has been partially cleaned but has not been lead since we did not have time to link into Red Dihedral. Watch for loose rock on this pitch.
This route starts ~100 feet to the right of Red Diehdral in a shallow right facing dihedral. This dihedral leans to the right and pinches out after ~100 feet.
The route can be rappelled from the 5th pitch with a 80m rope or two ropes. It is pretty easy to use a 70m rope and a short (10-15 meter) pull line to rappel. The 2nd pitch anchor should be skipped because it is way to the side.
~25 Meters from P5 to P4
~37 Meters from P4 to P3
~39 Meters from P3 to P1 (skipping P2)
35 Meters from P1 to the ground
A double rack from Green C3 to #1 camalot with a single Purple C3, #2 and #3 Camalot. I used 3x Red C3/Green Alien sized cams and 3x Yellow Aliens on both of the crux pitches. Medium to Small Nuts are also helpful. I used #3-#8 BD nuts + a few RP's (size 2,3).
All anchors up to pitch 5 are bolted. The belay stances improve as you get higher!
BETA PHOTO: Lost in the Sun - Photo Topo
Looking down the stellar 4th pitch
BETA PHOTO: Lost in the Sun - Ground View Photo Topo
BETA PHOTO: View of P4 from the P3 Belay.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the crux 3rd pitch. You can see both...
4th pitch just over the roof and around the 2nd cr...
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Aug 14, 2011
Awesome guys! I'd love to see a photo TR if you've posted one anywhere.
From: Oakland, Ca
Jul 22, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
This is a fantastic addition to the Hulk. The first pitch is laser cut, and the face climbing sequence to the anchor is very sequential, and would be a proud onsight for the grade. I caught some huge air after snapping some foot jibs my first go. The second pitch is short but the variety of movement is good fun. The crux pitch is also short, but there is a lot of work to be done, with several surprisingly distinct sections on a single feature. Placing gear makes this pitch legit 12-. The fourth pitch is phenomenal 5.10 and 5.11 climbing- several unique sections- not to be missed!! Fifth pitch is juggy 5.10 fun.
With the ease of rapping, this route is great for a short day or as part of a linkup. While the route is nowhere near buffed to perfection, the rock is generally quite good. Thanks Luke!
By Vlad S
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Very clean rock, good pro, and very fun climbing! Thanks Luke! We managed to get down with a 70m using the 2nd pitch anchor - no problem. No pull cord needed. Just need to watch the ends rappelling pitch 4 - we ended 3 ft short of the anchor, but that's the easiest part to downclimb. It's not obvious where to pull over the corner on pitch 2, but if you go just a bit too far up the rock gets very dirty quickly. The "large foothold" is there, but it's about 4 feet away from the corner, so you don't get to it right away. The route cleaned up fully now and is in great shape! Easy to get on if you are coming down the descent gully anyway and have some time to burn or if you are breaking into the grade.