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Lost in the Sun  

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 600', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Woodmen, Dorsey, 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 7,101
Submitted By: bradley white on Jul 2, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Isaac at the start of the climb. The first two pit...

Description 

Friction slabs and arch corner cracks to bolted belay anchors. 7 pitches go up adjacent to the long tree gully up the slabs. Good photos on the internet from images, (green chasm n.h.) of climbing on Mt. Webster and the central slabs. The photo's from Lost in the Sun, head wall, I don't know where they are.

Admin.'s NOTE: Bradley White soloed the approximate route of Lost in the Sun and named it "Key Stoned". He has chosen to keep the more common name "Lost in the Sun" for the route. His route description is that given above. For those looking for a bit of route finding adventure STOP HERE, others may appreciate the description below, from Ben Townsend:

Start: where the drainage gully meets the slab, there are three obvious features -- a wide vertical dike of black volcanic rock on the left, an open left-facing corner with a blank-looking left wall, and an alcove on the right at the base of a reddish vein or weakness that goes up into a short, darkish left-facing corner. This alcove is where you want to start.

P1: Up the short left-facing corner, then diagonal up left across a slab to corners, ledges, and an anchor. 115' (we rapped this pitch with a single 70m rope). The neclimbs description says there's a bolt on this pitch, but we saw no sign of one.

P2: You'll notice another anchor about 40' up and right -- ignore it, it's the P1 belay of "Direct". Instead, start up low-angled corners, then follow a slab* past three bolts to an easy headwall with cracks and a big ledge with two sets of anchors. (The third bolt is oddly located, requiring a stop right in the middle of the crux friction, despite a good stance just down to the right.) *The slab seems to hold its wetness. If so, it's easy to move a bit right and climb to the same ledge via "Direct".
The left set of anchors has one hanger sheared off by rockfall, though gear placements allow for backing up the other; the right set of anchors (of "Direct") has stainless bolts, but rusty plated ring-anchor hangers. A few minutes with a wrench and two stainless ring-anchors would remedy this issue, and if I get back up there this fall, I'll try to remember to do that. (Admin. NOTE: On the left, in addition to the broken bolt hanger, the bolt itself appears is bent. I was unable to remove the nut with a wrench. R. Hall 10-8-15)

P3: Up the obvious right-facing corner to a slab with three bolts (two visible from below); trend up right to an anchor.

P4: Easy slab to a ledge, then easy left-facing corners to a big ledge and anchor.
(NOTE: From this belay an easy "groove" leads up and right to the belay on "Direct" just below the fabulous "white slab" pitch. (P6 of "Direct") If the upper pitches of "Lost" are wet, this is a good alternative.

P5: Up an easy water-streak groove with poor rock, the traverse left below a headwall, cross a gully, and diagonal up left on flakes and cracks to the obvious Snake Flake. Up to its top, then move right to the anchor. Lots of rope drag possible if you don't use long runners wisely.

P6: Friction slab past two bolts (a bit heady off the belay to the first bolt, though the climbing is easy), some thoughtful gear placements in pockets or flakes on the slab, two more bolts (the third is hard to see until you're very close), then up to a horizontal and anchor.

P7: Up a white streak on very low-angle slab past one bolt to a ledge, clip a second bolt, then a short dark slab past an overlap to the anchors. 105' (maybe possible to rap with a 60m rope; a single 70m is certainly plenty).

All belays are two ring hangers except as noted. (Though some have mismatched single-ring and double-ring hangers; a perfectionist might do some rearranging.) Light rack to #3 Camalot.

Location 

See "Getting There" for the "Main Slab".

Once at the base, Lost in the Sun starts just left of the "toe".

Protection 

fixed bolts and a light trad. rack with medium cams. Rappel with two 60 meter ropes.


Photos of Lost in the Sun Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben Townsend, et. al. near the top of Lost in the ...
BETA PHOTO: Ben Townsend, et. al. near the top of Lost in the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up pitch three with a fun corner system th...
Looking up pitch three with a fun corner system th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Free solo up pitch one
Free solo up pitch one
Rock Climbing Photo: Isaac at the top of pitch two on a nice belay ledg...
Isaac at the top of pitch two on a nice belay ledg...
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 2
pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: On the first pitch and using a bolt from A Bit Sho...
BETA PHOTO: On the first pitch and using a bolt from A Bit Sho...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up pitch two, we went right to avoid the w...
Looking up pitch two, we went right to avoid the w...
Rock Climbing Photo: On the top of pitch 7!!!
On the top of pitch 7!!!
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 2
pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up pitch four with Isaac on lead.
Looking up pitch four with Isaac on lead.
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 2
pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the top of pitch six. Dave belaying. Up above...
Near the top of pitch six. Dave belaying. Up above...
Rock Climbing Photo: Anchor broken off on top of pitch 2. The anchors f...
BETA PHOTO: Anchor broken off on top of pitch 2. The anchors f...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave rappelling from the top of pitch seven with t...
Dave rappelling from the top of pitch seven with t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo from a GoPro on pitch 2
Photo from a GoPro on pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 2
pitch 2

Comments on Lost in the Sun Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Aug 10, 2009

this looks sick dave! i wanna get on it some day :)
By Mechanicalchris
Aug 1, 2011

Awesome adventure climb. Be careful though, the second bolt on pitch #2 is loose and unstable because the nut came off!!!!!!!!!!!!
By Just Jesse
From: Methuen, MA
Sep 10, 2012

The approach to this (from the road or pullout)is godawful if you travel via the woods, which are thick, steep and full of loose rock. Do yourself a favor and Park near where the RR track crosses 302 and walk the tracks for a 1/4 mile in. Don't know the legality of this, but it'll save you a heinous trudge in/out. Unless you are into that sort of adventure...
By Travis Dustin
From: Hollis, NH
May 19, 2013

Tough approach! IMO parking at the little pull off almost directly across the road from the slabs and crossing the river to the "trail" and rockslide is the best way to go.
By Travis Dustin
From: Hollis, NH
May 19, 2013

Does anyone know the route directly right of this climb?
By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jun 24, 2013

Hi Travis I believe the climb was 'A Bit Short'.
By USBRIT
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Oct 19, 2013

Did a route somewhere up the center of these slabs in the late 70's. What I remember not many belays if any.At the time felt not worth recording as much better crags were still unclimbed
By Adam Beach
From: Portland, ME
May 16, 2015

Hiked up to this climb yesterday and there was a waterfall coming down the first couple pitches. However, here is some approach beta: Park in front of the pond/marsh and walk down the road towards the slabs until you reach mile marker 45.6 (small green sign). Walk two tenths of a mile (two small white mile markers) further then cut down and cross the saco then hike straight uphill until you start seeing cairns that will lead you to the base of the talus.
[Admin. NOTE: The small white markers are not 0.1Mi apart, more like about 0.03 or 0.04, but it's presumed that TWO is the correct number!]

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