Lost in Space
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What!? A four pitch 5.10 sport route at Smith? This place is turning into a multi-pitch sport destination. I know of few other places in the US that have such a high concentration of multi-pitch sport bolted routes than the Smith Rock Group. That said, there's always something a little spicy about them, and this route is no exception.
An easy approach, great bolting, good rock (except the last pitch), and reasonable moves make Lost in Space one of the more accessible routes that tops out the formation.
All bolt counts are approximate.
Pitch 1 (8 bolts): 5.6. Follow the bolts up the chimney and onto the fin to the left. Pass the first anchors, and belay on top of the big ledge.
Pitch 2 (6 bolts): 10b. Crank sloping edges up a vertical/slightly overhanging wall for ten feet, and finish on an easy slab. Fun pitch. Give it to the more thuggish partner.
Pitch 3 (10 bolts): 10a. The best pitch of the route, I thought. Connive your way through tricky edges for a long way. Nicely bolted, fun moves, and most of the rock is quite solid. Enjoy the nice belay ledge at the top, and maybe set yourself up so you are sitting under the overhang. This will help protect you from rockfall on the last pitch.
Pitch 4 (10 bolts): 5.9. Starting this pitch, you think, "Oh, this isn't so bad." Just give it time- you will change your mind. Thankfully, the bolt line meanders, so you aren't climbing directly above your partner for the whole thing. There is still a chance of braining your partner, though, so be careful, and everyone needs a helmet.
Just a thought, it might be possible to cheat right after the third pitch into the gully. You would want to belay this procedure, and it could be completely heinous. As dirty as the final pitch is, I think it's worth it so that you get to top out.
Even with the last pitch detractor, this route is more than worth doing. Read the next sentence with a Vincent Price voice impression: Have fun, but look out for loose rock, or you may find yourself... Lost in Space!
Starts just left of Asterisk Pass, in front of a big jutting boulder, in a large right-facing chimney. Easiest approach is to go to Asterisk Pass, and then traverse left along the base past White Satin, etc.
I think the easiest descent is to do three single rope (60m) rappels down Wherever I May Roam. Top out, and find the descent gully, which is just below the top. It leads towards Asterisk Pass. Climb down this 3rd-4th class gully for 50-100 feet (rock, brush), and look for new bolts with long chains. This will be on the opposite side of the formation from what you've been climbing. The second station is also an anchor for the route, and is not a full rope length from the top. From there, it's just two raps to the ground, and it shouldn't be too much trouble to find them.
Bolted, with bolted anchors. It would have been nice to have a few shoulder length, and a double length slings for stray bolts and awkward belays.
Kara leading the third pitch.
Kara topping out on the only good rock of the last...
BETA PHOTO: Top of the 2nd pitch looking down. My partner is...
|Comments on Lost in Space
|By Jim Ablao|
Jul 14, 2010
Thanks for such an awesome route description. Glad to see folks getting on some of the longer routes. Still a bit raw but I think its settling down closer to as good as its gonna get with a few more ascents. That whole side of the Smith Rock Group from Lost in Space to European Vacation has such good position and exposure with the Marsupials to Monkey Face and everything in between view of the park is pretty hard to beat anywhere.
From: Minneapolis, MN
Apr 11, 2011
A cameo from one of our first ascentionists! I am honored.
|By Peter Rakowitz|
From: Portland, OR
Apr 18, 2011
I just climbed this today and the rock on pitch 4 is better then I thought it would be, but still less then stellar. It's definitely worth climbing the last pitch for the top out though.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Sep 18, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
3rd pitch is excellent, 2nd OK, and the rest not great. I think the crux on the 2nd pitch is pushing 10c as the holds break way...
If I do the route again, I think rapping off the top of the 3rd pitch (2 raps to the ledge) and climbing either the 11 arete below or 10b left of White Satin and then rapping down would make for a good day.
|By John Hayes|
From: Bend, OR
Sep 19, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
I struggled to give this route even a single star. The best pitch is the 3rd--just be careful what you crank on. Some of the holds are bomber and some of the smaller ones will blow off. The top of the last pitch is rotten, loose junk. The best part of this route is the view from the top of the ridge (A+.) With so many quality routes at Smith, put this one at (or near) the bottom of your list.
|By Nate Ball|
From: Taipei, TW
May 1, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Route finding on the first pitch is a little tricky. Go up into the chimney, and exit out left. Climb the face into the next gully, just below the start of White Satin/Sky Chimney. Exit left on more bolts. Continue up til it flattens out, clip a bolt on the wall and at your feet (use runners on these, or skip em), and use the bolts below another flake/chimney.
The overhanging moves up to the traverse on the 2nd pitch are burly. Definitely at least .10c. There are a few tricky sequences on the longer, more exposed third pitch, but it's .10a. Super, super fun! Final pitch is ALMOST worth topping out... but my mind was made when, as I was following, I hesitated amongst the choss to locate a solid hold. Thought I found one, matched, and nearly brought down a head-sized chunk. Not a good place to be launching mini-boulders.
Walk off from the top, or descend 30 feet from the 3rd pitch to the top-out area between Wherever I May Roam and White Satin and Sky Ridge. Rap WIMR or double-rope from The Platform.
Jan 30, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
I would like the FA for putting up such a nice route - it went across the best possible rock you can find on that face (we went to that area as a party of 4 - the other two people did Season's Change and was cleaning off plate size flakes).
Here's what I thought of the route:
1st pitch - 5.7 easy to miss the bolts next to your feet at the traverse. Rock look solid but I still manage to pull a mug-size hold off right at the beginning of the traverse and took a fall when I was following. It's the only fall I took on the whole route. So please be careful, loose rock can be anywhere.
2nd pitch - 5.10b or c - depending on how thuggy you are. Pure gym like pull hard move, then finish with fun delicate traverse and fun face climbing
3rd pitch - 5.10b? I thought the moves require a lot of thought and care as a lot of things has already been pulled off - and a few more holds look like they are about to go. But it is definitely the best pitch of the route and really fun. Finish off on a nice ledge for belay.
4th pitch - 5.7 It's very rotten rock and it crumbles everywhere, but with some care it's not that dangerous (more like ankle twisters than ankle breakers) as you go from ledge to ledge.
To top out feels awesome and one of the best adventure climbs you can have at Smith.
May 17, 2013
The first 3, fun. The 4th....unless you like choss, or really really want to top out, rap climber right to the gulley and wherever i may roam rap station and go climb Zion. The fourth took us as long as any pitch, it is tap tap, pray, tap tap, pull, tap tap, pray. Loose is not the word, and the scariest part is that if you pull off large, and there is large loose here, there are climbers 300' below. Just not worth putting them in harms way.
From: Bloomington, IN
Sep 9, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
What a fun climb! Route-finding on the first pitch wasn't obvious, but straight forward after the ledge. Second pitch was a bit of a wake up call, but the hard moves ended quickly. Third pitch was the money pitch and worth any imperfections of the route. And the fourth wasn't so bad! I expected much worse choss than I found up there. Maybe it's cleaned up a bit. Overall a worthy adventurous climb with a sweet topout.