Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
As a moderate lead, it fails on two distinct counts. 1) Loose Rock, dangerous to both climber and belayer. 2) A runout third pitch, the last pitch up the "huge dihedral." I felt a 40+ foot fall was definitely possible.
The first pitch, as Rossiter says, ascends "indistinct terrain" and is characterized by loose rock. We were hoping for 3 solid pitches in the 5.7 dihedral. Yes, there were some good moves, especially on the bulges in the 2nd pitch, but the runout 3rd and the additional loose rock in the 4th pitch made this an unappealing climb.
Note that trees are everywhere, and you could wrap off this at any point with a single rope.
Up to a #4.5 Camalot. A couple of double length slings are helpful on the first, wandering pitch.
Where is the route? You can't miss Sunstar, which is just to the right. The chimney and chockstone are obvious. To get on Lost in Space, go just to the L in the funky, inset chimney, or you can go 20 or 30 feet further L, which I didn't do. Once you are at the first belay, you are looking up at that massive dihedral.
I just did this one 3/25/08 and I agree with Ron's description of the climb. This is a fun climb, worth more than a star, maybe 2-3 IMHO.
There is some loose rock on the first pitch. My partner (a careful climber) knocked one down towards me by accident. But this is to be expected when climbing in the mountains. Redgarden Wall isn't supposed to be a roadside, bouldering park.
The V-dihedral has some grass in it and it's definitely an 8 there.
The walk off left is easy. No reason to rap this route.
It was 65-70s this March afternoon, and it felt downright hot on the rock. Definitely doable in winter.