|Type:||Sport, 3 pitches, 200'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Richard Rossiter, Dianne Barrow, Vanessa Grittenda, 2000|
|Submitted By:||Ivan Rezucha on Aug 11, 2004|
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 24, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I really liked this route: fun, interesting climbing from bottom to top, in a spot isolated from other routes on the cliff. Some dirty rock doesn't detract from the quality of the moves.
We stashed our gear at the start of Arcanum (just right of the one-bolt belay anchor by "Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid"), then scrambled about 100' right toward a tall pine tree visible on the skyline. The rappel bolts to access the route aren't visible until you top the pillar just left of this tree. An 85' rappel got us to the big terrace below the route.
I wouldn't recommend rappelling in from the top of the route, unless you just wanted to do the last pitch or the Orgasmatron finish (11b). We rebuilt the small cairn marking the top, but it's hard to see from a distance. Also, there are no rap rings on the anchors atop the first and second pitches.
Ivan's beta is excellent, as usual. The first pitch starts with some steep bulges that felt 5.9 to me, but were much harder for my shorter partner. Then fun stemming moves that seemed about 10a. I followed Ivan's advice and ran the first two pitches together; this was a good idea.The climbing in this section included a neat quartz crystal band and a clean arete and slab - 5.7 or 5.8. Bring a few longer runners to keep down rope drag.
The final pitch was outstanding: thin stemming moves up a steep corner, somewhat reminiscent of Over the Hill; I'd call it 10b or 10c.I felt comfortable with the bolts for pro; I brought some wired nuts but didn't use them. The 5.8 friction slab after the corner was fun as well.
After scrambling to the top of the rock and going a bit left, look down left for a big cairn marking the traverse to the anchors atop Arcanum. Two rappels (85' and 90') with a 60m rope got us back to our gear.
Check out this route if you're looking for an "adventure sport climb".
By nicholas patterson
Apr 17, 2012
When you get to this climb, turn and look across the canyon. You will see Animal World, a clean and challenging crag. That is where you should've gone, hahaha. Unless you like smearing lichen and crimping moss.
If you do find yourself in need of a dirty adventure, bring screwlinks and place them on the bolts at the second belay (there are no rap rings here, but there should be, as it is the most sensible way to rap...from the top, to the second belay, to the ground...with a 60m).