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Juneko leads Lost Ego.
Follow the slightly less than vertical hand and fist crack to a large pod. Make some commiting moves out of the pod (crux) and continue on the finger crack to the top. This route protects well for its duration and is probably my favorite lead at Taylor's. A large cam (#4 camalot) adds some security for the crux. For Minnesota multipitch fun climb Sentinel Crack as a second pitch.
This route is immediately below Sentinel Crack. From the base of Sentinel Crack walk down a some what steep dirt slope, turn left and find the base of the cliff.
Standard rack including a larger cam (#4 camalot). Standard top rope setup.
leading Lost Ego on Halloween weekend. Photo by JL...
Lost Ego. 5.8
BETA PHOTO: Lost ego
BETA PHOTO: The route follows the rope.
Clay Nadeau doing something crazy...
Aug 5, 2008
One of the best climbs we did at taylors falls (and it only gets 1 star). A 3 camelot will get you through the wide at the top.
|By Andrew Krosbakken|
Nov 19, 2008
This climb is classic and a must do. The crux is coming out of the cave/ hole in the route but is protectable.
When your on top of this climb you can then go down a tree rooted gully (easy, not to sketchy) or you could do kind of a second pitch and climb Sentinel Crack which starts on the just on top and to the left of Lost Ego. Sentinel Crack, another classic climb and a must do.
|By Tyler V|
From: Woodbury, MN
Sep 15, 2009
Probably my all time TF favorite. My only gripe is that it isn't 1000' taller because it is just that much fun.
It is just a spectacular hand crack with a tricky (but protected)crux coming out of the cave.
They call it 5.8ish, which is probably accurate, but if you have your jamming act together it will feel pretty effortless and 100% enjoyable.
|By Ryan Justen|
From: St. Paul, MN
Apr 14, 2010
This is a great climb that is very well protected for leading.
NOTE: Someone removed that loose rock at the top (crux) of this climb that was a key foot hold for exiting the offwidth section. This increases the difficulty a little bit to roughly 5.9- for that one move.
|By Shane Irons|
From: Edina, MN
Aug 1, 2010
The offwidth at the top is now the most difficult part of the climb. 5.9 on lead.
Jul 30, 2011
echoing the previous comments, the crux is exiting the pod/topping out. a fun route and, at least to the pod, a good lead for newer climbers (protects well)
|By John Ericson|
From: Irvine, CA
Dec 31, 2011
This was my second lead on trad. Fun and easy to protect the whole way.