Long Lost Dreams
|Original: || Hueco: V6-7 Font: 7A+ PG13 [details]|
|FA: ||Eric & Greg Johnson|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||46|
|Submitted By: ||Greg Johnson on Aug 6, 2013|
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BETA PHOTO: Lost Dreams.
This is powerful and fun. The FA of Lost Dreams V 5-6 (stand start, dihedral finish) was done by Eric on TR, due to back-breaker blocks. I added a sit start off the double underclings and a finish out the rail/fin to create Long Lost Dreams, also on TR. Good spots and pads could make it a vaguely safe proposition without a rope, maybe.
Start from obvious flat edges or undercling sit. Bust up the crack to a horizontal. Fuss up the splitter finger crack and turn the lip at the dihedral or out the fin.
Lost Dreams is on a blocky boulder cluster near the top of the gully that separates Dream Dome from Lost Angel, hence its name. The trail that drops down the gully passes just above Lost Dreams, which faces north.
It is easy to rig anchor at the top off a big tree. A directional piece or two will keep the rope out of the crack. Due to the steepness of the line, the TR is only effective for the top half of the problem.