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Two arete-slapping boulder problems separated by a ledge define this route, which is a little steeper than it looks from the trail on the opposite side of the creek.
Three bolts supplement gear placements, and there are chains on top.
The second boulder problem is much easier than the first, but might have ledge-fall potential if you blow it at the chains and there's too much slack in the system. At that point, though, it's possible to clip or grab the chains, which are hanging in your face. And if you climbed through the first crux, you'll likely be fine there anyway.
The clipping positions are all reasonable, though the crux clip might be hard to find onsight.
Here's some beta for pulling the rope and keeping it out of the water: pull it from the opposite side of the creek and give it a good snap just before the end drops from the chains. Make sure people aren't walking up behind you as you do this, or they might get an unwanted lesson in BDSM.
This route climbs the obvious arete that rises straight out of the creek 60 feet left (upstream) of "Electric Butterfly." When the creek is running low, it's easily crossed to the base of the climb. Belay on cobble stones in an alcove to the right of the arete. There's a belay bolt to help keep your partner from going into the water.
In addition to quickdraws, bring finger-sized cams and stoppers from a #0 Metolious TCU to 1 inch. A #3 Camalot isn't necessary but provides some confidence for a hard move. Save the purple Metolius and a long runner for after the crux.
Oct 4, 2010
On a sentimental note, I've been looking at this line since I was in high school 10 years ago.
|By Michael Schneiter|
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Oct 5, 2010
Nice, Derek. I've looked at that line for a long time. Always cool to see people psyched on our local stuff.
Oct 5, 2010
Nice one, Derek. D-Stizzy, in the Hizzy!
|By S Denny|
From: Carbondale, CO
Oct 8, 2010
Yeah, buddy! Such a sick line, way to go, Derek.
Dec 12, 2012
After climbing this route again recently, I had to up my star rating. I feel like I can say more objectively now that this is truly a quality bit of rock. It's compact, but the sequences are full value, with a couple moves that are still really hard for me.