|Type:||Trad, 11 pitches, Grade V|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Wheeler, Lazar, Lomme|
|Submitted By:||slevin on Feb 22, 2002|
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|Comments on Lost Cities||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Brad Bond
Jun 21, 2002
|This is an everybody route. Great description, except I thought it was worthy of the three-star grade!|
By Willie Mein
Sep 3, 2002
|This route is a three star route by my standards. From P4 and up, there is fantastic climbing on (relatively) good rock, with good gear. The climbing is quality all the way to the very last move. Hard climbing, good gear, with possible bail option 3 pitches below the rim. This route is excellent.|
By justin dubois
From: Estes Park
Apr 15, 2003
|Climbed this over the weekend, and it is for sure a spectacular route. Even with the terrace at two thirds hieght,this might deserve 3 stars. As for being an "everybody route", I have to disagree. It's hard!! Does the Black Canyon even have any of those?After the first 350' all the climbing is 5.10 or harder, somtimes much harder. It would be hard to aid the cruxes, and it stays sustained all the way to the rim (the last four pitches are 5.11). The fixed pin on the second crux pitch is not there, and if it was were I assume it was, there are no other options for gear. This proved to be very scary and a little serious. A fall from the exit moves of this pitch would produce a worthy flyer. Also the traverse across the bushy terrace is cruxy for sure, but it is not 300' left. It is 100' up and almost straight ahead. There is a cairn at the start of these exit pitches.|
By Roy Leggett
Sep 11, 2005
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
|Helpful Beta....take your helmet and pack off for the crux. You may want consider ditching your pack for the OW section on p.9 too (only necessary if you are as pooped as I was). If you have a tag line, you can haul your pack on these pitches....but given the fact that a possible walk off ledge splits the route, it's a good route to go commando style on (one rope). After p.1 (400 ft.), No pitch is over 120ft.|
By Jay 1975
Jul 11, 2008
|Nice one. The crux roof is actually nothing like the one on "Naked Edge". This one runs sideways and is fully awkward. Quality route though. Most should be simul-ing the first three pitches, too. Then Flash pump crux!|
By Paul Nunez
Sep 21, 2009
|There is no longer a pin on the 7th pitch, so protect well (nuts and finger size gear) before the hard part. The route is awesome, and in my opinion, the last three pitches are the best.|
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
May 5, 2014
Bailed off this Saturday. Good news is that it is quite easy to do in 4 raps with a 70m! Bad news is then you have to walk out the gully with your head hung low.
What killed the psych for me:
1) Started off kinda feeling lousy.
2) Wetness on the 5.8 pitch below the crux scared me quite a bit (turned 5.8 chimneying into low .10 stemming with poor protection).
3) Realizing that if I got scared by low .10 stemming with poor protection, what the hell was I doing on this route?
4) Seeing the awkward ledge fall potential above the bolt on the crux roof (maybe not that bad? see next...).
5) Having a cam pull out of the right wall while "scouting" (aka aiding) and taking an upside-downer past the ledge.
Anyone wanna guide a poor, apparently sport climber up this route in the fall?
Next one up gets a grey Camalot, a number of carabiners, and a few offset DMM nuts! Banish the bad juju!