Lost Canyon is the workhorse of Gunnison bouldering. Located 8 miles north of Gunny, it is close enough for a quick jaunt around your school or work schedule. Every yahoo with a pair of shoes has undoubtably bouldered here. A quality band of Dakota sandstone sits atop a steep hill and is well suited for the beginner and intermediate climber. The height of the cliff ranges from 10 to 20 feet. For harder problems, the law of Lost is make it contrived. Many of the harder probles have certain holds on for use and others that are off. This might seem ridiculous, but this is a natural outcome of local telent exceeding the offerings of the cliff. The rock is littered with holds of every shape and size. Slopers, edges, pockets, rails, crimps, and plenty of jugs encourage elimination. The scene at Lost is cool and it is not uncommon to see a group of climbers with sketchpads, a radio, a few dogs, and lots of friendly slander.
Head north out of Gunnison on CO Highway 135 towards Crested Butte, From the last light in town, the pullout is 7.2 miles north and is marked by a set of mailboxes and a candy striped pole on the right. You will see the cliff band above you on the west side of the road. Pull off and hand a U-turn and park on the southbound side of the road. If this pullout is full, park on the north bound side, but do not block the mailboxes. This is critical to maintain a good rapport with those folks who live below the cliff in order to avoid access problems. The bouldering area itself is on National Forest Land. The trail heads straight up the hill from the southbound parking pullout.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lost Canyon:
Featured Route For Lost Canyon
Pit Full of Pacholi V4 CO : Gunnison : ... : Fat Bottom
Start under the roof at the back of the prow where a large crack is located with your left hand on a crimp sidepull just above the crack and your right hand on a crimp midway out the roof. Pull on and crank out to the point of the Fat Bottom, then finish straight up....[more] Browse More Classics in CO