Lost Boys  5.9

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Type:  Trad, Grade II FA:  Jason Nelson and Jason Horning New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Jason Nelson on Sep 3, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Climber: Jason Horning Photographer: Jason Nelson ...

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2013 Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> Serpent Point and the adjacent walls within one-half mile are closed to public use from March 15 through July 15. This includes the landscape portions above the walls extending 50 feet from the rim edge. This pertains to the following areas: North Rim areas - The Alpine Aretes, Porcelain Arete, and Painted Wall. These climbing routes are closed: Alpine Route, Porcelain Arete, On the Border, Broken Porcelain, Northern Arete, Beyer Route, The Dragon, The Serpent, Forrest-Walker, Stratosfear, Journey Through Mirkwood, and Southern Arete. South Rim areas - Dragon Point and Dragon Point Buttress. These climbing routes are closed: Pilgrimage, Crumb Blunder, Magic Dragon, Black Adder, Black Snake, Black Heathen, Black Dragon Rider, and Silent Rage. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

About the Climb: This climb was found as a result of missing the cruise gully on the approach. The first 350 feet of climbing follow primarily handcracks up good rock. The rest of the climb (250 ft.) is on not quite as good rock, but nothing horrible. It would be an Alright introduction to climbing in the Black as it is only 4 pitches (60m rope) and only 5.9 with good gear. You top out on a spire overlooking the chasm view wall and the checkerboard wall. Instead of traversing on the second pitch, we wanted to push the line through the big roof above, but the rock was very flaky and bad.

Directions: Head down Grizzly creek gully (next gully to the east of Cruise Gully) to the first rock band. Make a 90 foot rappel. Hike a little further till gully terminates into steep slabs. The climb starts above a large chockstone (20 feet?) just above the slabs.

Climb: P1 - (180 ft. 5.9)From chockstone, short handcrack to a ledge, follow lower of 2 ramps right until it is possible to gain the upper ramp, head back left to reach handcrack (watch ropedrag). Follow handcrack to ledge above pegmatite band. P2 - (175 feet, 5.9)traverse right along crack for 40 ft. to a ledge. Follow crack system just above the ledge to a short right facing dihedral and to another big ledge. P3 - (125 feet, 5.9)In the back of the corner is a pink colored right facing dihedral. Follow this and up left to gain a ledge. P4 - (110 feet, 5.8) climb steps and traverse left along ledges to reach the cliff top.

Descend: hike toward canyon rim and back to camp.

Protection 

Standard rack up to a #3 Camalot. Double hand-sizes will be useful for longer pitches.

Photos of Lost Boys Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: from bottom	Climber: Jason Horning Photographer: Jason Nelson ...	Jason Squared topo shot from below climb.