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Moolack
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Age Before Beauty 
Blood On the Cracks 
Cleaned For Her Pleasure 
Compromising Positions 
Eta Eva 
Extreme Makeover 
Fist Fight 
Full Circle 
Gold 
Lost Art 
Mr. Clean 
page for page fixes to NWOR 
Pledge Allegiance 
Plumber's Crack 
Radical Sabatical 
Sendero De Sangre 
Sidewinder 
Up on A Pedestal 
Zion Train 

Lost Art 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bill Soule, Mike South 1990's
Page Views: 196
Submitted By: PDub-Trad on Aug 1, 2012
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Description 

A slightly mossy start (thats shared with Blood on the Cracks and the OG start to Up On A Pedestal) lends to quality crack climbing with minor dime edging and smearing for a section leading into a rest under a steep roof. Beyond the roof positive jamming and helpful holds outside of the crack (a horizontal break half-way thru crux takes gear and hand slot) gets steep. Cruxing definitively eases beyond apex of steepness, with 5.8 climbing to top shared tree anchor above difficulty. Large tree anchor typically has in-situ anchor as it is a common ending point for the day, and is shared finish with adjacent routes.


Location 

This route is located at the end of the approach trail. To its left is Up On A Pedestal, with its obvious ledge at half-height. To its right is Blood on the Cracks with its obvious steep dihedral and widening crack.


Protection 

No bolts. All gear. Bring webbing and cord to bridge gap between anchor tree and cliffs edge if you plan on top-roping after send. #00 - #3



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By Johnny Y
From: California
Aug 18, 2013

Gear from 3/4" to 3", nothing smaller than BD #0.4. The pitch is 35m or 115ft, not 35ft. You will need a 70m rope to safely rap to the ground

By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Aug 27, 2013

False. I've descended this many, many times with 60m ropes of varying makes and models. W/stretch it just makes it.

By PDub-Trad
From: Corvallis, Oregon
Jan 27, 2014

So maybe we can agree that a 70 meter rope Safely plants you to the base and allows for yo-yo tr opportunity, while a 60 meter rope will barely get you there with rope-stretch so don't plan on tring post-rap or if you do get that TR quick before it starts receding up the cliff?