Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Moolack
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Age Before Beauty T 
Blood On the Cracks T 
Cleaned For Her Pleasure T 
Compromising Positions T 
Eta Eva T 
Extreme Makeover T 
Fist Fight T 
Full Circle T 
Gold T 
Lost Art T 
Mr. Clean T 
page for page fixes to NWOR T 
Pledge Allegiance T 
Plumber's Crack T 
Radical Sabatical T 
Sendero De Sangre T 
Sidewinder T 
Up on A Pedestal T 
Zion Train T 

Lost Art 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bill Soule, Mike South 1990's
Page Views: 226
Submitted By: PDub-Trad on Aug 1, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

A slightly mossy start (thats shared with Blood on the Cracks and the OG start to Up On A Pedestal) lends to quality crack climbing with minor dime edging and smearing for a section leading into a rest under a steep roof. Beyond the roof positive jamming and helpful holds outside of the crack (a horizontal break half-way thru crux takes gear and hand slot) gets steep. Cruxing definitively eases beyond apex of steepness, with 5.8 climbing to top shared tree anchor above difficulty. Large tree anchor typically has in-situ anchor as it is a common ending point for the day, and is shared finish with adjacent routes.


Location 

This route is located at the end of the approach trail. To its left is Up On A Pedestal, with its obvious ledge at half-height. To its right is Blood on the Cracks with its obvious steep dihedral and widening crack.


Protection 

No bolts. All gear. Bring webbing and cord to bridge gap between anchor tree and cliffs edge if you plan on top-roping after send. #00 - #3



Comments on Lost Art Add Comment
Show which comments
By Johnny Y
From: California
Aug 18, 2013

Gear from 3/4" to 3", nothing smaller than BD #0.4. The pitch is 35m or 115ft, not 35ft. You will need a 70m rope to safely rap to the ground

By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Aug 27, 2013

False. I've descended this many, many times with 60m ropes of varying makes and models. W/stretch it just makes it.

By PDub-Trad
From: Corvallis, Oregon
Jan 27, 2014

So maybe we can agree that a 70 meter rope Safely plants you to the base and allows for yo-yo tr opportunity, while a 60 meter rope will barely get you there with rope-stretch so don't plan on tring post-rap or if you do get that TR quick before it starts receding up the cliff?