Lost Arrow 

what about the rappel?that is the most fun scary part

Good point Christina, 1 60 meter rope will get you down, but recommend that you use 2, as 1 rope forces you to hit the ledge on the left and downclimb. Also, it is a rather hairy drop off into a free rap.

Great climb, in regards to the very severe rating, I think this is terribly misleading to any would be ascentionists. The route description above states that during the second pitch when you cross over the arete and onto the east face that there is no protection. Actually there is a perfect #2 camalot crack that splits that face and diagonals up towards the summit. You can easily place as much gear as you would like in this beautiful crack, and as long as you use shoulder length runners, the rope drag is not a problem in the least. At the end of this crack, there is about 15 feet of unprotected climbing to reach the summit plateau, however, by that point I would say the climbing is in the 5.4 to 5.5 range. No problem, if you have already led the exciting first pitch. My point is to say that do not fear this climb because of the very severe rating. It is a great climb that is very protectable until the last 15 feet and the last 15 feet are easy.

Gotta agree here. Though the move around the corner is very airy, (you can get some small nuts here, but they'll ptobably fall out once you are around the corner:-)...the climbing once on teh face is easy, huge, City Style dishes. If you are freaking out, you can go left and get some gear. I lead this as a total beginning leader, and though it is runout...it would take a cannonball in the chest to blow you off those dishes. VS is misleading....R is fine. Besides...the real scariest part is lowering your ass over the edge to rap!! have fun!

Agree with AC's comments....the 5.5 is R if you go straight up, but huge and positive. R....not X. Besides you can place a few small nuts at the edge, equalize/runner well a la gogarth....your in there! Heads up for lightning on those afternoon ascents...had a VERY close call here once....with the only cloud for 20 miles. weird.

Amazingly cool/improbable route, a great summit, and a wild rappel.

There is an alternate start about 50 feet right of the described start that travels up and left on a low-angle ramp, then steps around the corner and heads into the dihedral at the second pin. This can be protected with wires and aliens and I like it better -- stepping around the corner here is wild. In the photo (#3) of pitch one, you can see this ramp straight right of the climber -- it turns the corner onto the face where the climber is, and then joins the right-facing corner just above where he is.

Also, this is easily led in one pitch if gear is runnered well.

Totally fun with a swell rappel.

There's a lot of iron up there. You could almost pull it off with a set of slings!

The top out leaves you totally satisfied.

Great route. Not really a true "R" rating. On the second pitch, after turning the corner you can protect the crack with a larger cam (#2-3 camalot), and if you use a long sling (60cm or more) the rope drag is not a big issue. A couple moves after this it leans in to easy 4th class.

Just a second to the fact that the second pitch is completely and easily protectable until the last 20 ft or so, and by then if you have made it this far feels like a walk up. there is a crack a few feet left of the ridge line that takes mid size bomber cams.

If you want to up the grade a little do it in the winter when all the jugs are filled with ice. Probably doesn't get dry till early/mid may.

A single 70 meter rope gets you all the way down with 10 feet to spare. No need to bring two 60's. Also, the first pitch just needs small things, nuts and cams #.75 and smaller. I used a #1, a #2 and #3 to build anchor at the belay ledge.

If you use really long runners on the first part, before the bolt, it will reduce the rope drag. I clipped the bolt, but I didn't use a long enough runner and I suffered for it belaying from above.

What in the world?! This climb is so much fun I can't believe it. I followed pitch 1 and thought a few moves were harder than 5.7 but was probably just the exposure just before the short vertical crack to the belay ledge.

Pitch two is lots of fun on a wind-gust kind of day! I placed an opposed nut before going around the corner which is exciting to say the least. Opted for one #3 C4 in the diagonal crack before heading up. Rope drag was not unreasonable. If I took that cannonball to the chest as per above, I at least wanted something protecting my tarzan-swing out on the face. The climbing really isn't hard at the point however. Just exposed and exciting. What a top-out! The rap is sweet.

Worth the hike for the solitude. No anchors at the belay station, so bring some #0.5-#2 cams to build. Plenty of room. The second pitch is airy and fun, especially if you don't pull onto the stab and want to make the route a little more adventurous (read: dangerous). Room at the top for a picnic. 70m rope from the chain anchors on top would have gotten us to the ground, but we had two ropes anyways.

I found the runout at the top a little freaky, but it's all solid. You can hold onto large jugs on the lip. Rapped with a 70m to ground from the top. Amazing rock quality and interesting moves. Must do!

Barely got down with 1 60m, with no downclimbing - went rappeller's right at very bottom to pedestal.