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Lost Arrow Spire
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Lost Arrow T 

Lost Arrow 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Lowe, Brown
Page Views: 11,010
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 24, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (119)
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Get down from there!

May 2013
Photo by Duc

Description 

AKA: Classic Route.

Pitch 1: Start on the north face of Lost Arrow Spire on a flake traverse that reaches a vertical crack with the original Lowe piton in it. Clip it, enjoy the nostalgia, and stem or jam your way on up. After the crack ends, clip the bolt and work through the highly pocketed face to the exciting and well protected hand traverse. The crux seems to be the tail end of this traverse. Attain the ledge and belay.

Pitch 2: works left off the ledge. Protect before you make the leftward move over the arete as there is NO protection beyond it. It is 5.5 only. Caveat: If you do protect it the rope drag will kill you. Choose your poison.

Protection 

Lost Arrow has 1 bolt and 4 pitons on the 1st pitch. Otherwise a standard rack will work. Bring some runners also.


Photos of Lost Arrow Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down at pitch one
Looking down at pitch one
Starting the face section.
Starting the face section.
THE Lost Arrow Spire.
THE Lost Arrow Spire.
Starting up pitch 2
Starting up pitch 2
Lost Arrow rap. from the ground looking up.
Lost Arrow rap. from the ground looking up.
P1 of the Classic Route.  It was very cold that day.  Burrr!
P1 of the Classic Route. It was very cold that da...
Mark finishing the last bit of the second pitch.
Mark finishing the last bit of the second pitch.
Maura Hahnenberger just before going around the corner on the upper section of the Classic Route on the Lost Arrow Spire.
Maura Hahnenberger just before going around the co...
Maura Hahnenberger nearing the top of the Classic Route on Lost Arrow Spire.
Maura Hahnenberger nearing the top of the Classic ...
Belaying on top
Belaying on top
Diana enjoys the free rappel down to Jeff as the summer thunderstorm approaches.
Diana enjoys the free rappel down to Jeff as the s...
Something to be said for climbing classics on a Monday
Something to be said for climbing classics on a Mo...
Dean, Fred, Rick and Gary enjoying the summit
Dean, Fred, Rick and Gary enjoying the summit
Lost Arrow, start of pitch 2
Lost Arrow, start of pitch 2
the initial stemming portion of the classic route
the initial stemming portion of the classic route
little sis rapping down
little sis rapping down
Gary starting the rappel.
Gary starting the rappel.
Bruno racking up for the second pitch
Bruno racking up for the second pitch
Gary experiencing the freedom!
Gary experiencing the freedom!
On the sharp arete of pitch 2 <br />
On the sharp arete of pitch 2
Pitch 1.
Pitch 1.
Starting the rapell <br />
Starting the rapell
Second pitch belay with my Pops.
Second pitch belay with my Pops.
A look down from pitch 2
A look down from pitch 2

Show All 26 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Lost Arrow Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 15, 2014
By Cristina Amat
Aug 2, 2004

what about the rappel?that is the most fun scary part
By Nathan Fisher
Aug 2, 2004

Good point Christina, 1 60 meter rope will get you down, but recommend that you use 2, as 1 rope forces you to hit the ledge on the left and downclimb. Also, it is a rather hairy drop off into a free rap.
By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 19, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great climb, in regards to the very severe rating, I think this is terribly misleading to any would be ascentionists. The route description above states that during the second pitch when you cross over the arete and onto the east face that there is no protection. Actually there is a perfect #2 camalot crack that splits that face and diagonals up towards the summit. You can easily place as much gear as you would like in this beautiful crack, and as long as you use shoulder length runners, the rope drag is not a problem in the least. At the end of this crack, there is about 15 feet of unprotected climbing to reach the summit plateau, however, by that point I would say the climbing is in the 5.4 to 5.5 range. No problem, if you have already led the exciting first pitch. My point is to say that do not fear this climb because of the very severe rating. It is a great climb that is very protectable until the last 15 feet and the last 15 feet are easy.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 27, 2005

Gotta agree here. Though the move around the corner is very airy, (you can get some small nuts here, but they'll ptobably fall out once you are around the corner:-)...the climbing once on teh face is easy, huge, City Style dishes. If you are freaking out, you can go left and get some gear. I lead this as a total beginning leader, and though it is runout...it would take a cannonball in the chest to blow you off those dishes. VS is misleading....R is fine. Besides...the real scariest part is lowering your ass over the edge to rap!! have fun!
By Tea
Mar 18, 2006

Agree with AC's comments....the 5.5 is R if you go straight up, but huge and positive. R....not X. Besides you can place a few small nuts at the edge, equalize/runner well a la gogarth....your in there! Heads up for lightning on those afternoon ascents...had a VERY close call here once....with the only cloud for 20 miles. weird.
By Josh Janes
Jul 4, 2006

Amazingly cool/improbable route, a great summit, and a wild rappel.

There is an alternate start about 50 feet right of the described start that travels up and left on a low-angle ramp, then steps around the corner and heads into the dihedral at the second pin. This can be protected with wires and aliens and I like it better -- stepping around the corner here is wild. In the photo (#3) of pitch one, you can see this ramp straight right of the climber -- it turns the corner onto the face where the climber is, and then joins the right-facing corner just above where he is.

Also, this is easily led in one pitch if gear is runnered well.
By Blitzo
Oct 24, 2006

Totally fun with a swell rappel.
By Iain Morris
Jul 30, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

There's a lot of iron up there. You could almost pull it off with a set of slings!

The top out leaves you totally satisfied.
By mkm
From: Boise, ID
Jan 12, 2010

Great route. Not really a true "R" rating. On the second pitch, after turning the corner you can protect the crack with a larger cam (#2-3 camalot), and if you use a long sling (60cm or more) the rope drag is not a big issue. A couple moves after this it leans in to easy 4th class.
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 17, 2010

Just a second to the fact that the second pitch is completely and easily protectable until the last 20 ft or so, and by then if you have made it this far feels like a walk up. there is a crack a few feet left of the ridge line that takes mid size bomber cams.
By Ty Morrison-Heath
From: Bozeman, MT
Apr 26, 2011

If you want to up the grade a little do it in the winter when all the jugs are filled with ice. Probably doesn't get dry till early/mid may.
By jeffozozo
From: santa clara, utah
Jun 14, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

A single 70 meter rope gets you all the way down with 10 feet to spare. No need to bring two 60's. Also, the first pitch just needs small things, nuts and cams #.75 and smaller. I used a #1, a #2 and #3 to build anchor at the belay ledge.

If you use really long runners on the first part, before the bolt, it will reduce the rope drag. I clipped the bolt, but I didn't use a long enough runner and I suffered for it belaying from above.
By wasatch-mtn-man
Jun 15, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

What in the world?! This climb is so much fun I can't believe it. I followed pitch 1 and thought a few moves were harder than 5.7 but was probably just the exposure just before the short vertical crack to the belay ledge.

Pitch two is lots of fun on a wind-gust kind of day! I placed an opposed nut before going around the corner which is exciting to say the least. Opted for one #3 C4 in the diagonal crack before heading up. Rope drag was not unreasonable. If I took that cannonball to the chest as per above, I at least wanted something protecting my tarzan-swing out on the face. The climbing really isn't hard at the point however. Just exposed and exciting. What a top-out! The rap is sweet.
By Buddy
Jun 25, 2012

Worth the hike for the solitude. No anchors at the belay station, so bring some #0.5-#2 cams to build. Plenty of room. The second pitch is airy and fun, especially if you don't pull onto the stab and want to make the route a little more adventurous (read: dangerous). Room at the top for a picnic. 70m rope from the chain anchors on top would have gotten us to the ground, but we had two ropes anyways.
By Nate Flink
From: Minneapolis, MN
Sep 27, 2012

I found the runout at the top a little freaky, but it's all solid. You can hold onto large jugs on the lip. Rapped with a 70m to ground from the top. Amazing rock quality and interesting moves. Must do!
By Scott Thalacker
From: Logan, UT
May 12, 2013

Barely got down with 1 60m, with no downclimbing - went rappeller's right at very bottom to pedestal.
By Hendo
From: Denver, CO
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

If you cruise the first pitch. The 2nd pitch is nothing! Way less stressful IMO. And the 2nd pitch does actually protect well if you stay in hand-crack. Not sure if that's considered the real route though...
By Riley P
From: Arcata, CA
Aug 17, 2013

there is no real need to place any pro on the first pitch there are a few bomber pitons and a bolt. a 60 m rope makes the rappel, barely. make sure to bring plenty of slings, esp for getting situated before the rap. the second pitch is super fun, its a "jug-arete"
By flynn
Feb 15, 2014

Re the second pitch: go pretty much straight left from the belay stance. This is juggy; you'd have to try really hard to fall off it. Ease left around the corner onto a flatiron-like face, but with the lovely crack mentioned earlier. Runout at the top is casual. Summit is five stars on a scale of three; bring some good munch material and hang out for the view.