|Lost Arrow Spire
AKA: Classic Route.
Pitch 1: Start on the north face of Lost Arrow Spire on a flake traverse that reaches a vertical crack with the original Lowe piton in it. Clip it, enjoy the nostalgia, and stem or jam your way on up. After the crack ends, clip the bolt and work through the highly pocketed face to the exciting and well protected hand traverse. The crux seems to be the tail end of this traverse. Attain the ledge and belay.
Pitch 2: works left off the ledge. Protect before you make the leftward move over the arete as there is NO protection beyond it. It is 5.5 only. Caveat: If you do protect it the rope drag will kill you. Choose your poison.
Lost Arrow has 1 bolt and 4 pitons on the 1st pitch. Otherwise a standard rack will work. Bring some runners also.
On the sharp arete of pitch 2
Summit! Classic line!
Starting the face section.
Lost Arrow rap. from the ground looking up.
THE Lost Arrow Spire.
P1 of the Classic Route. It was very cold that da...
Mark finishing the last bit of the second pitch.
Maura Hahnenberger just before going around the co...
Bruno racking up for the second pitch
Maura Hahnenberger nearing the top of the Classic ...
Starting the rapell
Diana enjoys the free rappel down to Jeff as the s...
Second pitch belay with my Pops.
Dean, Fred, Rick and Gary enjoying the summit
Lost Arrow, start of pitch 2
the initial stemming portion of the classic route
little sis rapping down
Gary starting the rappel.
Gary approaching the summit
Starting up pitch 2
Gary experiencing the freedom!
Belaying on top
Get down from there!
Photo by Duc
|By Cristina Amat|
Aug 2, 2004
what about the rappel?that is the most fun scary part
|By Nathan Fisher|
Aug 2, 2004
Good point Christina, 1 60 meter rope will get you down, but recommend that you use 2, as 1 rope forces you to hit the ledge on the left and downclimb. Also, it is a rather hairy drop off into a free rap.
|By John J. Glime|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 19, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Great climb, in regards to the very severe rating, I think this is terribly misleading to any would be ascentionists. The route description above states that during the second pitch when you cross over the arete and onto the east face that there is no protection. Actually there is a perfect #2 camalot crack that splits that face and diagonals up towards the summit. You can easily place as much gear as you would like in this beautiful crack, and as long as you use shoulder length runners, the rope drag is not a problem in the least. At the end of this crack, there is about 15 feet of unprotected climbing to reach the summit plateau, however, by that point I would say the climbing is in the 5.4 to 5.5 range. No problem, if you have already led the exciting first pitch. My point is to say that do not fear this climb because of the very severe rating. It is a great climb that is very protectable until the last 15 feet and the last 15 feet are easy.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Sep 27, 2005
Gotta agree here. Though the move around the corner is very airy, (you can get some small nuts here, but they'll ptobably fall out once you are around the corner:-)...the climbing once on teh face is easy, huge, City Style dishes. If you are freaking out, you can go left and get some gear. I lead this as a total beginning leader, and though it is runout...it would take a cannonball in the chest to blow you off those dishes. VS is misleading....R is fine. Besides...the real scariest part is lowering your ass over the edge to rap!! have fun!
Mar 18, 2006
Agree with AC's comments....the 5.5 is R if you go straight up, but huge and positive. R....not X. Besides you can place a few small nuts at the edge, equalize/runner well a la gogarth....your in there! Heads up for lightning on those afternoon ascents...had a VERY close call here once....with the only cloud for 20 miles. weird.
|By Josh Janes|
Jul 4, 2006
Amazingly cool/improbable route, a great summit, and a wild rappel.
There is an alternate start about 50 feet right of the described start that travels up and left on a low-angle ramp, then steps around the corner and heads into the dihedral at the second pin. This can be protected with wires and aliens and I like it better -- stepping around the corner here is wild. In the photo (#3) of pitch one, you can see this ramp straight right of the climber -- it turns the corner onto the face where the climber is, and then joins the right-facing corner just above where he is.
Also, this is easily led in one pitch if gear is runnered well.
Oct 24, 2006
Totally fun with a swell rappel.
|By Iain Morris|
Jul 30, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13
There's a lot of iron up there. You could almost pull it off with a set of slings!
The top out leaves you totally satisfied.
From: Boise, ID
Jan 12, 2010
Great route. Not really a true "R" rating. On the second pitch, after turning the corner you can protect the crack with a larger cam (#2-3 camalot), and if you use a long sling (60cm or more) the rope drag is not a big issue. A couple moves after this it leans in to easy 4th class.
|By Gary Schmidt|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 17, 2010
Just a second to the fact that the second pitch is completely and easily protectable until the last 20 ft or so, and by then if you have made it this far feels like a walk up. there is a crack a few feet left of the ridge line that takes mid size bomber cams.
|By Ty Morrison-Heath|
From: Bozeman, MT
Apr 26, 2011
If you want to up the grade a little do it in the winter when all the jugs are filled with ice. Probably doesn't get dry till early/mid may.
From: huntsville, utah
Jun 14, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R
A single 70 meter rope gets you all the way down with 10 feet to spare. No need to bring two 60's. Also, the first pitch just needs small things, nuts and cams #.75 and smaller. I used a #1, a #2 and #3 to build anchor at the belay ledge.
If you use really long runners on the first part, before the bolt, it will reduce the rope drag. I clipped the bolt, but I didn't use a long enough runner and I suffered for it belaying from above.
Jun 15, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R
What in the world?! This climb is so much fun I can't believe it. I followed pitch 1 and thought a few moves were harder than 5.7 but was probably just the exposure just before the short vertical crack to the belay ledge.
Pitch two is lots of fun on a wind-gust kind of day! I placed an opposed nut before going around the corner which is exciting to say the least. Opted for one #3 C4 in the diagonal crack before heading up. Rope drag was not unreasonable. If I took that cannonball to the chest as per above, I at least wanted something protecting my tarzan-swing out on the face. The climbing really isn't hard at the point however. Just exposed and exciting. What a top-out! The rap is sweet.
Jun 25, 2012
Worth the hike for the solitude. No anchors at the belay station, so bring some #0.5-#2 cams to build. Plenty of room. The second pitch is airy and fun, especially if you don't pull onto the stab and want to make the route a little more adventurous (read: dangerous). Room at the top for a picnic. 70m rope from the chain anchors on top would have gotten us to the ground, but we had two ropes anyways.
|By Nate Flink|
From: Minneapolis, MN
Sep 27, 2012
I found the runout at the top a little freaky, but it's all solid. You can hold onto large jugs on the lip. Rapped with a 70m to ground from the top. Amazing rock quality and interesting moves. Must do!
|By Scott Thalacker|
From: Logan, UT
May 12, 2013
Barely got down with 1 60m, with no downclimbing - went rappeller's right at very bottom to pedestal.
From: Denver, CO
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13
If you cruise the first pitch. The 2nd pitch is nothing! Way less stressful IMO. And the 2nd pitch does actually protect well if you stay in hand-crack. Not sure if that's considered the real route though...
|By Riley P|
From: Arcata, CA
Aug 17, 2013
there is no real need to place any pro on the first pitch there are a few bomber pitons and a bolt. a 60 m rope makes the rappel, barely. make sure to bring plenty of slings, esp for getting situated before the rap. the second pitch is super fun, its a "jug-arete"
Feb 15, 2014
Re the second pitch: go pretty much straight left from the belay stance. This is juggy; you'd have to try really hard to fall off it. Ease left around the corner onto a flatiron-like face, but with the lovely crack mentioned earlier. Runout at the top is casual. Summit is five stars on a scale of three; bring some good munch material and hang out for the view.