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Lost Arrow Spire

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Lost Arrow Chimney T 
Lost Arrow Spire Direct T 
Lost Arrow Tip T 

Lost Arrow Spire Rock Climbing 


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Location: 37.75604, -119.5941 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 19,993
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jon Richard on Jan 24, 2007
Forecast:
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Lost Arrow Spire, intermediate belay on the 2nd pi...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Tremendous exposure. This is a great route to prepare you for aiding on big walls. The route requires passing a knot as you have to rappel into the notch with 2 ropes tied together.

Getting There 

From Camp 4 take the trail to the top of Yosemite Falls. At the top, cross the creek and follow second-class slabs along the rim and you'll see the spire (be careful if you slip -- you die...)

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.7 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Lost Arrow Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lost Arrow Spire:
Lost Arrow Tip   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2     Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 250'   
Lost Arrow Spire Direct   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2     Trad, Aid, 16 pitches, 1400'   
Lost Arrow Chimney   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 10 pitches, 1100'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Lost Arrow Spire

Featured Route For Lost Arrow Spire
Rock Climbing Photo: Notice the rope configuration: the climber is on a...

Lost Arrow Tip 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Lost Arrow Spire
P1: .10d pin scars and fingers right off the notch (easy for the rating, some fixed gear, short crux) to easier climbing to more fixed gear and a stance below an awkward slightly bulging, grainy, and flaring .10a fist/OW for a few moves to a belay on a huge ledge. P2: Move left off the ledge using a couple of small pieces to a large flat edge than can be hooked or bust a psuedo-free 5.8ish move to get the next placement. A few placements interspersed with bolts/rivets (both with and without hang...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Lost Arrow Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lost Arrow Spire, finishing the Tyrolean using the...
Lost Arrow Spire, finishing the Tyrolean using the...
Rock Climbing Photo: in the moment  May 2012
in the moment May 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: The great views you get from the Direct Route.
The great views you get from the Direct Route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Yosemite Falls and Lost Arrow Spire
Yosemite Falls and Lost Arrow Spire
Rock Climbing Photo: Onsight slack line setup...No send :(
Onsight slack line setup...No send :(
Rock Climbing Photo: Shadow and tyrol.
Shadow and tyrol.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lost Arrow Spire-the whole thing. Photo by Blitzo.
Lost Arrow Spire-the whole thing. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: The 2-rope rap down into the notch.
The 2-rope rap down into the notch.
Rock Climbing Photo: roping up with igor
roping up with igor
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: starting pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: starting pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Tyrolian Traverse off Lost Arrow Spire.
Tyrolian Traverse off Lost Arrow Spire.
Rock Climbing Photo: The tyrolean traverse from tip to top
The tyrolean traverse from tip to top
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 2 belay
pitch 2 belay
Rock Climbing Photo: The Lost Arrow Spire.  The Chimney ascends the gro...
BETA PHOTO: The Lost Arrow Spire. The Chimney ascends the gro...
Rock Climbing Photo: turning corner at beginning of pitch 2
turning corner at beginning of pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 2 with yosemite falls
pitch 2 with yosemite falls

Comments on Lost Arrow Spire Add Comment
Show which comments
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 19, 2015
It's open again as of 8/15/2015.
By Clayton Knudson
From: Moab, UT
Aug 31, 2015
Fun route, first wall for me. Can easily be done in two days, we spent a second night at the notch and had friends meet up with us the next morning via the falls trail to set up the tyrolean. Great way to end a wall with all of your friends hanging out, think we got 14 people across the tyrolean that day. Gets super windy at night right after sunset, plan accordingly. We brought a tent for the first bivy (pitch 8) and tied it down to cams and nuts in the cracks of the ledge.

Hauling was a pain on a couple of pitches, try to figure out a way to keep your bag out of the chimneys on pitch 8. If you clip your haul line to the bolt on the last section of 5.5 heading to the ledge the second should be able to help flip the haulbag onto the face and keep it from getting stuck. The bivy at pitch 12 would be tight for three but is possible, Salathe ledge is bigger but much more exposed. We had virtually no wind at pitch 12.

Spring of 2015 we didn't see any major anchor issues and bolts were in good condition. Offset cams and nuts help a ton on this climb.
By Loganator
From: blue van, on the highway to no
Apr 20, 2016
I recall a very large, loose block on the traversing pitch before the notch. I believe the guide book calls it 5.10R or C2 (C2+?). It was as big as a coffee table, and teetered when I put a #2 cam behind it. Maybe it is one of those moving chockstones that is actually wedged in there? Who knows, it would fall right down towards the horse stables if it blew. Easy to avoid, just be careful!

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