Lost Arrow Spire Rock Climbing
Lost Arrow Spire, intermediate belay on the 2nd pi...
Tremendous exposure. This is a great route to prepare you for aiding on big walls. The route requires passing a knot as you have to rappel into the notch with 2 ropes tied together.
From Camp 4 take the trail to the top of Yosemite Falls. At the top, cross the creek and follow second-class slabs along the rim and you'll see the spire (be careful if you slip -- you die...)
Weather station 0.7 miles from here
3 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Lost Arrow Spire
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Lost Arrow Spire:
Featured Route For Lost Arrow Spire
Lost Arrow Spire Direct 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
: Yosemite National Park
: ... : Lost Arrow Spire
"With an easier approach than Half Dome, plenty of easy to moderate climbing and plush bivy ledges, Lost Arrow Direct is an excellent introductory wall. Nearby Yosemite Falls is stunning. The climbing is neither too steep nor too serious. This route is more involved and therefore harder than the South Face of Washington Column or Skull Queen but easier than The Prow."-SupertopoThe Supertopo beta has all that you should need. You can fill up water when the falls are pumping on the approach as you...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Latest Regional Forum Messages
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 19, 2015
It's open again as of 8/15/2015.
By Clayton Knudson
From: El Portal, CA
Aug 31, 2015
Fun route, first wall for me. Can easily be done in two days, we spent a second night at the notch and had friends meet up with us the next morning via the falls trail to set up the tyrolean. Great way to end a wall with all of your friends hanging out, think we got 14 people across the tyrolean that day. Gets super windy at night right after sunset, plan accordingly. We brought a tent for the first bivy (pitch 8) and tied it down to cams and nuts in the cracks of the ledge.
Hauling was a pain on a couple of pitches, try to figure out a way to keep your bag out of the chimneys on pitch 8. If you clip your haul line to the bolt on the last section of 5.5 heading to the ledge the second should be able to help flip the haulbag onto the face and keep it from getting stuck. The bivy at pitch 12 would be tight for three but is possible, Salathe ledge is bigger but much more exposed. We had virtually no wind at pitch 12.
Spring of 2015 we didn't see any major anchor issues and bolts were in good condition. Offset cams and nuts help a ton on this climb.