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Lost Arrow Spire
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Lost Arrow Chimney T 
Lost Arrow Spire Direct T 
Lost Arrow Tip T 
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Lost Arrow Spire Direct 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C2

Type:  Trad, Aid, 16 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C2 [details]
Page Views: 5,363
Submitted By: Roger Suen on Oct 3, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Hauling up Lost Arrow Spire Direct

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


"With an easier approach than Half Dome, plenty of easy to moderate climbing and plush bivy ledges, Lost Arrow Direct is an excellent introductory wall. Nearby Yosemite Falls is stunning. The climbing is neither too steep nor too serious. This route is more involved and therefore harder than the South Face of Washington Column or Skull Queen but easier than The Prow."
The Supertopo beta has all that you should need.

You can fill up water when the falls are pumping on the approach as you will come very close to them. Saves you some trouble there.

The wind whips out of the amphitheater pretty fiercely and expect to get sprayed by the falls. (Peeing can be an adventure)


C2 Aid Rack - Nuts Double, Cams Triple, Offset Aliens useful. Rivet Hangers, Hooks

Photos of Lost Arrow Spire Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Awesome 6th Pitch splitter
Awesome 6th Pitch splitter
Looking down, you can see the first big bivy ledge...
Looking down, you can see the first big bivy ledge...
Approaching the start of Lost Arrow Spire Direct
BETA PHOTO: Approaching the start of Lost Arrow Spire Direct
Looking up the Spire
Looking up the Spire

Comments on Lost Arrow Spire Direct Add Comment
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By Rob Dillon
Oct 5, 2011

The climbing on this route is extremely straightforward; in this, it is indeed suitable for the n00b. The logistics are another thing entirely, which is what sent the 3 guys from Wisconsin home with their laminated topos between their legs when we were up there.

The approach is burly and you might need a rest day by the time you get done with it. Water is a hassle unless you arrive while the little trickle at the base of the LA Chimney is flowing- springtime/post-rain only. Humping it from the Valley is no fun, and fetching it from Yosemite Creek entails at least several hours' worth of shenanigans. Getting over to the rim at the top requires some forethought; the alternative (climbing out of the notch) is non-gumby terrain, loose and sketchy.

Logistics aside, the location is amazing and worth all the toil. Special features include giganto bivy ledges, a seasonal torrent, and wind that will keep you in your tent until 8 a.m.
By Shelton Hatfield
From: Austin, Texas
Mar 2, 2014

There is a large disk shaped block precariously wedged in the top of the fourth pitch chimney, immediately before reaching First Error. Although the leader moves left onto the face before they would encounter the block, be aware of where your haul line is running (duh).
By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Jun 6, 2014

Although a lot of this route is great rock, there are a couple of heads up sections. When we climbed this in 2011, I knocked off a rock in the 4th pitch chimney when i took a fall. This was before the new topos that clearly state "go left". Be sure you do that. Also, my partner took a pretty big fall on the 5th pitch when a microwave sized block cam off underneath the horizontal traverse. The rest of the route seemed great.
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