|Type:||Trad, 10 pitches, 1100', Grade IV|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||FA: John Salathe, Anton Nelson, 9/1947, FFA: Chuck Pratt, Frank Sacherer, 1964|
|Submitted By:||Alexey on Nov 2, 2012|
|Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Lost Arrow Chimney||Add Comment|
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From: Petaluma California
Jun 29, 2015
Chad recommended this route to me too. I've spent 38 years of climbing avoiding routes like this one. It will take a while for the memory to fade.
Take knee pads. Mine are a mess. The route takes more time than half dome RR. Don't let the moderate grade fool you. After pitch 7, you are half way done. A few notes. We didn't use the recommended belays on every pitch. We didn't run full pitches together either. The first few pitches are easy. Turning the roof on pitch 3 looks like a horror, but it is very easy on the left by way of a finger crack. The top of the safety valve gives you an idea of what is to come. Expect many feet of this type climbing. The OW on pitch 5 is easy. Pitch 6 is odd and wonderful stemming. My partner said that going straight up the OW squeeze was 5.11. Going around right was easier. Pitch 7 (the rotten chimney) is easy, but dangerous and intimidating toward the end. A yellow totem cam might have made it R instead of X. Pitch 8, with the good bolt, is dangerous. Imagine an open flaring green chimney with a bad fall (before reaching the bolt). This stretch was at my limit. After this, more flaring squeeze. Pitch 9 Starts with 70 feet of flaring squeeze. The bolts on the topo are useless, but cams fit in the back. About 70 feet up, tunnel in a tight squeeze, and then back out above chock stones. This pitch is hard. Pitch 10 is pure joy, steep hand and finger cracks.
We took a set of offset nuts from about #4, double cams to #1, and a single "2,3,4,5,6. Seemed about right, and allowed us to make two or three piece belay anchors. Two quarts of water were plenty, but expect to burn 1000s of calories.
The Rap map isn't accurate. However, it is easy to find the anchors. Don't use the anchors out left on the second rap. The good anchors are hidden lower in the chimney (straight down) The only rap station that wasn't straight down was second from the end. Easy to see, 150 ft, and a bit climbers left. A few hanging belays are very uncomfortable.