This is another great wall. The biggest piece of granite in the Boulder area. This is the main attraction for climbers in Upper Dream Canyon. There is a mix of bolted and trad moderate climbs here; however, the predominant protection is currently bolts. The rock is fairly big and finding your exact route can take a bit of effort. Routes range from 1 to 5 pitches here. Some of the starts can become trickier during the spring runoff.
Zen Garden Wall:
A. Night Grooves, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.
B. Time Traveler, 9, 1p, 120', gear & bolt.
C. Shape Shifters, 9, 1p, 120', bolts & gear.
D. Be Here Now, 8, 1p, 150', gear & bolts.
E. Knowoneness, 9, 1p, 150', gear & bolts.
F. Crazy Wisdom, 11-, 1p, 150', gear & bolts.
G. Shunyata, 8, 1p, 150', gear & bolts.
From the creek:
H. Raise The Titanic, 11, 1p, 140', bolts.
I. Strange Cargo, 11-, 3p, 250', bolts.
IJ. Primal Cinema, 11, links H with I for 1.5 p, 130', bolts.
J. Autumn, 11-, 3p, 250', bolts & gear.
K1. Divination, 11, 3p, 340', bolts.
K2. Divination Direct, 12- var start, 1p, bolts.
L1. Variation to Hunky Monkey, 11+, 2p, bolts.
L2. Hunkey Monkey, 11, 4p, 300', bolts.
M. Dynamometer, 12+, 3p, 300', bolts.
N. Earth Voyage, 12-, 4p, 280', bolts.
O. China Doll, 9 A3+ (or Free Half 13 for 2p), 4p, 370', gear & bolts.
P. Raspberry Manhandler, 6 A3+, 4p, 370', gear & bolts.
Q. Archangel, 12, 2p, 100', bolts & gear.
R. Fallen From Grace, 12+?, 1p.
S. Digital Dilemma, 11+, 1p, 60', bolts.
T. Dyno Arete, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.
U1. Freedom, 10-, 1p, 90', bolts.
U2. 5.9 Crack, 9, 1p, 60', gear.
U3. Escape From Freedom, 10- (6 R), 2p above V, gear.
V. Wide Crack, 8, gear.
W. Little Wing, 11-, gear & bolts.
X. Rock Odyssey, 12, 4p, 330', bolts.
above X. Interzone, 1p, gear.
Y. Tripendicular Wildman, 12, 2p,
Z. Beauty And The Bolts, 11+, 2p, 160', bolts.
AA. Naked Lunch, 11+, 5p, 360', bolts.
BB. Awakenings, 12-, 3p, 250', bolts.
CC. Zentropa, 11-, 3p, 280', bolts & gear.
DD. Signs Of Life, 11, 1p, bolts.
EE. Diabolique, 12?, 1p, bolts.
FF. Long Dong Dihedral, 6+, 3p, 240', gear.
GG. Disneyland, 11+, 2p, 190', bolts.
HH. Weenie Roast, 9, 1-2p, 180', gear.
II. Gross Anatomy, 9, 1p, 160', gear.
Wake Up Wall:
JJ. Life On Mars, 10-, 1p, gear.
KK. Killing In The Name, 9, 1p, 80', gear.
LL. Take The Power Back, 9-, 1p, 80', gear.
MM. Crack In The Wall, 10-, 1p, 80', gear.
NN. Rush, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
OO. Rage Against The Machine, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
PP. The Host, 11+, 1p, bolts.
QQ. The Vaino Step, 12-, 10, 80', bolts.
RR. Jungle Blues From Jupiter, 10, 1p, gear.
SS. The Caterer, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts.
TT. Spiders From Mars, 11, 1p, 70', gear.
UU. Drop Zone, 10, 1p, bolts.
VV. AAArete, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
WW. Boy's World, 8, 1p, 70', gear.
XX. Technical Remote Viewing, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts.
YY. Standard Route, 6, 1p, 50', bolts.
On the northern end of the canyon, on the east side. The easiest access is via CO Hwy 119 (aka Boulder Canyon) to Sugarloaf Rd to the dirt road Lost Angel Rd. There is a small parking area.
50 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',1]
Browse More Classics in Lost Angel
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lost Angel:
China Doll 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
A3 Trad, Aid, 6 pitches, 350'
Drop Zone 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch
AAArete 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Autumn 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 3 pitches
Divination 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 3 pitches
Hunky Monkey 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 4 pitches, 300'
Naked Lunch 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 5 pitches, 360'
Awakenings 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 3 pitches
The Caterer 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Archangel 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b Sport, 2 pitches, 100'
Dynamometer 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b Sport, 3 pitches, 300'
Featured Route For Lost Angel
China Doll (P1-2, free) 5.13+ 8b 30 X- E7 7a CO
: ... : Lost Angel
This route climbs the obvious spectacular right-leaning crack in the middle of Lost Angel Wall. The first pitch features technical stemming with a boulder-problem crux in the middle. The business of the second pitch is about 25 feet of sustained cranking up the thin arching crack.Pitch 1- Climb a short 5.10ish bolted pitch to anchors where the crack begins. Continue up the crack either placing gear or clipping bolts on the right and finish at a 3-bolt anchor (5.13b/c)Pitch 2- Do a couple of ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
News and Events For Lost Angel
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Looking down canyon from the 2nd belay station on ...
The Lost Angel Formation, photo: Bob Horan.
Misty mountain tops in Dream Canyon, photo: Bob Ho...
|By Ron Olsen|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 23, 2004
In 2003, Vaino Kodas and partners put up six new routes on Wake Up Wall at the top of Lost Angel.See vainokodas.com/climbing/coroutes/wakeup.html for details.
I climbed four of these routes recently, and have added them to the data base. I hope Vaino will add his excellent photos to these route descriptions.
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 6, 2006
It's not a big deal, but there are too many climbs here under Lost Angel. It would be nice to separate them out under sub-crags. For example, it is not easy now to find all the climbs on the Zen Garden Wall, or Wake Up Wall. These two areas are both under Lost Angel although they are probably nearly 1/4 mile apart!
Navigation to the base of these climbs is complex and confusing. But that is part of the fun of Dream Canyon! The map above is a great help, although there is room for improvement.
Nov 20, 2007
My guidebook was grabbed at base of the Lost Angel wall. If you have it, please let me know. email@example.com
|By Jason Kaplan|
From: Glenwood ,Co
Oct 12, 2008
I have a complaint/ warning to others. Yesterday the weather was cloudy, misting, and light rain all day, so I figured instead of letting the weather shut me down like it has for about 2 weeks now I would go aid China Doll. Seeing as I have never been to Dream Canyon, this was probably a bad idea. We missed the correct approach and basically ended up right in the middle of the canyon below upper and above lower.
The problem was that we had no idea what we were on top of at the top and there is a ton of spur trails. The tops of the cliffs didn't present any distinct land marks to navigate from (we didn't know what cliff was which as you can't see the face from above) and it was unclear which drainage was the correct one to descend. We went way too far east in an attempt to find a for sure safe way down. The problem was we didn't want to slip on top of a big dome or slab of rock and end up at the bottom dead, or get cliffed out by taking the wrong way down. So, we just took the obvious main trail down to the bottom. Up the creek we went, crossing like 5 times I was sure glad I left my pack up top...not.
We arrived at the Lost Angel super exhausted not to mention running out of time, only had time to link the first 2 pitches and lower/back clean. I didn't climb at all, just a horrendous walk in a soaked canyon. with extra warm clothes and tons of gear for nothing! I guess at least my friend got some more aid experience, but at what price?
We came back up the ramp and saw another option we were considering for descent earlier, definitely cliffed out but was probably less then 100 yards from the ramp. For some reason we thought that deadly option was the dream dome descent but actually we were atop midnight instead of the LA. I hope I can find the ramp next time as there wasn't much that was really distinct about where we popped out.
So, the lesson, expect to waste a day (or maybe just part of the day if you start early enough) just finding the formation/route you want to climb here as navigation can suck. Probably good practice for descending into the black canyon on a smaller scale.
How many others have been lost here? I bet I'm not the first by a long-shot. Studying the contour of the river (in relation to the map in your guidebook) seemed helpful after the fact. We figured that out while we were lost in the bottom wondering where we were.
|By Charles Cundiff|
Jul 26, 2010
Yep, I got lost, too. Don't go here for the first time if you are under any time constraint. It'll likely take a bit to find your bearings, but once you understand the canyon, it shouldn't be too difficult to find your way around.
|By Greg Miller|
From: boulder, co
Jul 11, 2012
Does anyone have any beta on Archangel? Looks like a great line that could use some cleaning as well.