The following crags are typically closed 1 February to 31 July:
The Goose Goose Eggs East Ridge Mars Block Nebel Horn Tower of the Moon Jamcrack Spire The Pyramid Incognito Crag Devil's Thumb Shadow Fax Isolation Rock Sunset Wall Devil's Wing (W. Face) The Matron Lost & Found The Sibling Toddler Rock Sphinx Medusa
This rock is not a new rock, per se, but has certainly been overlooked in the past. If someone can find me a previously documented name for it, please let me know.
'Lost And Found' is a large Flatiron, the largest in an area which we referred to as 'The Lost World' when we explored it. The scope of this particular rock can only be seen from south of the Flatirons, perhaps from US 36 or CO Hwy 93, or near the small town of Plainview. It has very large East and South faces that will support a huge number of lines, primarily on the Southern fork of the two summits and ridges. It is somewhat apparent in pictures in Rossiter's Flatirons climbing book, appearing behind the Matron on pages 12 and 14. The East face rock is similar to the typical classic Flatiron. Although the East face is not broad like on the first or 3rd flatiron, the rock is excellent, and the Southern arete is reminiscent of the ridges of Skunk Canyon. 'Stairway To Heaven,' 'Satan's Slab,' 'Angel's Way' and 'Mohling Arete' immediately come to mind. The broad and tall South Face (take two ropes!) is similar in character to the South Face of Shanahan Crags, but much larger. No previously documented routes seem to exist, or perhaps none at all, save those that are about to be entered here. The peak has, however, previously been visited, as a small cairn and "pole" monument was built on the top. The short West face apparently give access to hikers and a downclimb for climbers as well. To descend from the Southern Summit, scramble West, then South to a "spelunking" exit to the ground- 15 meters in all, and no harder than 5.4. The northern summit is and Easy downclimb that should be more immediately apparent, to the South-West.
The SE ridge and S face get nearly all-day sun, and the East face, sun in the morning. Access is likely the same as for the Matron, and since there is no official trail presently established, should be approached with sensitivity. As this approach takes one past the Matron, I would presume that the formation is subject to the same closures, unless approached from Eldorado Canyon and (Physical crag) and gained via an 'over the top' ridge climb from the West and then heading North. This however would add an hour to the approach and still be dubious for legal access. I'd recommend to climb here after the raptor closures are lifted.
The crag has a limited number of lines on it, and presently the only "must do" line I have done is 'Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly (5.10, S)', a super-direct line on the SE arete, 800 feet long.
To approach, reach the Matron's West Face, and strike out cross-country, West by North-West to the foot of the huge ridge back behind. This formation is actually larger than the matron itself. After perhaps 600 Meters, you will encounter the base of the stone. All routes I describe will be references to the low point, where a boulder lies against the wall, giving the appearance that Mother Nature deposited a 'cheater stone' to give access to the initial headwall of the SE arete. This is also the start of the initial route, 'Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly.'
So you've already done all of the long Flatiron Ridge classics? Maybe not...The position and views alone are classic- looking down on the Matron from hundreds of feet above it, and with to the North of Sobo and Diamond Head (in Eldo) and to the South of Shirt Tail Peak. To the SE is the Eldorado springs pool and the South Boulder Creek. To the Northeast is a great view of Shadow Canyon and all of it's crags, including the Maiden, Jamcrack Spire, the Devil's Thumb, etc.... The exposed arete is pr...[more]Browse More Classics in CO