This is a variation to the normal Los Museos/Lost Fingers route.
This link-up may be done as one long pitch using a 70m rope. Start up Los Museos and head left up the steep, unprotectable slab to the overhanging crack of Abrojos e Centellas with 2-3 fixed pins. Ascend the pumpy crux bulge directly. Easier climbing leads to a belay in an alcove. Belay here or continue on through the final steep dihedral crack of Lost Fingers for a sensational mega-pitch. An ultra classic and stiff for the grade.
West face, Aguja Frey.
Double Gear to #2 Camalot and alpine draws. Can be done in one pitch with a 70m rope, but watch out for drag. The slab section on the lower part below the crux is not protectable, but the climbing is moderate until the bolt below the crux.
Josh Beckner following the second pitch of Lost Fi...
Jared Spaulding leading pitch two of Lost Fingers ...
|Comments on Los Museos/Abrojos e Centellas/Lost Fingers
|By J Med|
Jan 5, 2012
Great route- 1st section on Los Museos has a bolt above the fixed pin (new?)- 10b 1st crux- belayer should take care if the leader blows it at the crux- potential groundfall if sloppy rope-handling...
the wild dihedral of Lost Fingers is spectacular, but only about 10c at most- straight-forward thin-hand jamming, and wild stemming to exit (good pro).
edit: ah, my bad Dave. I didn't realize you could straighten-out the link-up with that part of A&C- I will try it next time!
|By David Trippett|
From: Squamish, BC
Jan 5, 2012
This is a variation that breaks out left partway up the first pitch, through an easy but run-out slab and heads through the overhang. Takes a direct line to the base of the Lost Fingers corner.