||Trad, Aid, 450', Grade II
|Original: || YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a A1 [details]|
|FA: || Jim McConachie, Brad Young, Erik Bratton, Dennis Erik Strom, December 6, 2009 (route was started in October, 2007).|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||468|
|Submitted By: ||Brad Young on Oct 15, 2013|
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The following description is from the Pinnacles/Mud'n'Crud web site forum's new routes "sticky" thread. It uses the route numbers from the 2007 Pinnacles guidebook (that thread's description of the route also contains a link to a topo but I'm not sure how to link/insert that topo here):
Route number 815.4 Los Banditos 5.10a A1
The natural continuation of the Bandits in Bondage pitches. Four pitches.
Approach via the first pitch of the route The West Face (route # 811). Fifty feet past the end of this pitch (to the north, The West Face traverses after its first pitch) is a small meadow. Los Banditos starts from this meadow, 100 feet right of the start of Rock Around the Clock.
Pitch one (60 feet): start on a small pedestal of rock. Six aid bolts on an overhanging face lead up and left to a small roof which is at the bottom of a water streak. Two more aid bolts lead over the roof. Intimidating free moves from the eighth bolt (5.9) lead to a ledge and one directional bolt. The first pitch anchor is 5 feet to the right.
Pitch two (110 feet): This excellent pitch continues up the obvious water chute past 10 bolts (10 includes the directional from the first pitch). Getting into the chute is 5.9; two bulges higher in the chute are each 5.10a. The pitch finishes with 15 feet of easy slab to a stance and a two bolt belay.
Pitch 3 (195 feet): Continue up the chute past five bolts on increasingly easy and runout climbing. The crux is after the second bolt (5.7). Large knobs can be slung for additional protection. One hundred fifty feet up, the chute branches. Take the straight up branch (that is, don't take the branch to the left). A two bolt anchor is obvious on a low angle slab, 30 feet below the bottom of the water chute which is descended as part of the Old Original Rappel Bypass variation (route # 836).
Pitch Four (90 feet): Climb the deeper chute which is 30 feet left (north) of the chute which makes up the Rappel Bypass (these chutes are obvious on page 338 of the guidebook). Small cams (the only gear on the route) can be used to protect the moves into the chute (5.5); the chute then becomes class three and four (and can be further protected by slung knobs).
End on the top of Machete Ridge, at a pine which is 30 feet from the end of Old Original's third pitch.
At least a dozen slings and carabiners and/or quickdraws, and, optionally, a couple small cams (see description above).