|Los Alamos Canyon
A selection of climbs can be found in Los Alamos Canyon, just south of the town of Los Alamos.
The Hospital Crag, is a sunny little crag located downhill just south of the medical center, and hosts a handful of sport climbs. An online guide is found here: lamountaineers.org/pdf/Hospital_Crag.pdf
Approximately 20 short sport climbs on rhyolite exist upcanyon accessed by hiking up the road to the site of the former Los Alamos Reservoir. Some of these climbs are missing their hangers, but some have them.
The south side of the canyon hosts the most obvious/accessible ice climb in the area.
From the town of Los Alamos, head toward the bridge to LANL property. Just before the bridge, take a right on West Rd. to drop into the Canyon; go past the ice rink, before the road goes up the south side of the canyon is the turn-off to the reservoir (gated). The Hospital Crag is more readily accessed by parking behind the medical center and hiking down.
11 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
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|Comments on Los Alamos Canyon
|By Shibli Fazal|
Feb 11, 2013
There are sport routes up Los Alamos Canyon starting from along the paved road. These were being established by me and a few other people. I was calling it Shangri-La at some point when there were still trees and it was more scenic. There was already one route with two homemade hangers on it(still there, and a route with red spray-paint marking potential bolt placement). I named some of the routes but I forgot most of them. One was "The Gardner" because when I first started bolting there was a marijuana plot there promptly removed by its owner. Another was "Rate of Decay" as the rock is of poor quality in some places yet completely solid in others and often covered with lichen making it look decayed. Another was "Astro Samurai" because it was difficult. There is a lot of variation in the density of the rock on the surface. I think thirteen sport routes have bolts and anchors. There is also one crack up the canyon with anchors, and another above the reservoir that has anchors part way to the top of the cliff. I did take the hardware off 9 of my routes because some of them were too easy and one was kind of soft. I remember hearing a Hosptal Crag story from long ago about a couple of climbers having to time the climbing between patrols and still getting caught. Feel free to climb, put the hangers and anchors back on, or replace any of the bolts or anchors on the existing routes. And by all means put up additional bolts or routes. If you happen to talk to security tell them you're part of the mountaineers club and share the same goals in rock climbing. I've only seen them drive by on the paved roads or occasionally stop in at the parking lot at Pajarito Canyon after I've started a fire. Goodbye.