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 ADVANCED
Premier Buttress
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Climb Well and Live T 
Della's Dance T 
Girl Shaped Love Drug T 
Lori's Little Layback T 
Phishing Opener T 
Phoenix, The T 
Premier Route 5.10c or 5.8 A0 T 

Lori's Little Layback 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 234
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Sep 17, 2012

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Lori's Little Layback 5.10

Description 

More like "Lori's Burly, Sustained, High-Quality, Awesome Layback".

A beautiful left-facing corner on the left-most edge of the Premier Buttress. Scramble up behind a prominent 20' tall fir tree to the base of the corner. The route starts at finger size and eventually opens up to hands. The wall slants away to the left, giving the whole route an overhanging feel. Good exposure and excellent protection opportunities. Very sustained, with a solitary rest stance at about 1/3 height. Ends at a bolted anchor atop a ledge.

Rumor has it that additional bolted pitches have been added to take the route to the top of the Premier Buttress, but this information is unavailable.

Location 

Left-most route on the Premier Buttress. Scramble uphill about 100' up a gully to the left of the toe of the buttress (near the Premier Route). The route starts behind an obvious fir tree. A single 60M rope is sufficient for the rappel off the shoulder of the buttress (~80').

Protection 

Double cams from #1 TCU to #3 Camalot. Triples in .75 and 1 Camalots might be a good idea if you are leading at your limit. 2 bolt rap anchor.


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By Richard Shore
Sep 17, 2012

I hadn't heard anything about this route before getting on it, nor had I heard of anyone who's actually done it. I was awestruck when I first saw it. IMO, this is one of the best crack pitches in the portal. Lots of strenuous laybacking and jamming. A neglected classic.