Lori's Little Layback  5.10

105 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Richard Shore on Sep 17, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Lori's Little Layback 5.10

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

More like "Lori's Burly, Sustained, High-Quality, Awesome Layback". I felt like this was more like 5.10+ than the 5.10b given in the Croft/Lewis guide.

A beautiful left-facing corner on the left-most edge of the Premier Buttress. Scramble up behind a prominent 20' tall fir tree to the base of the corner. The route starts at finger size and eventually opens up to hands. The wall slants away to the left, giving the whole route an overhanging feel. Good exposure and excellent protection opportunities. Very sustained, with a solitary rest stance at about 1/3 height. Ends at a bolted anchor atop a ledge.

Rumor has it that additional bolted pitches have been added to take the route to the top of the Premier Buttress, but this information is unavailable.

Location 

Left-most route on the Premier Buttress. Scramble uphill about 100' up a gully to the left of the toe of the buttress (near the Premier Route). The route starts behind an obvious fir tree. A single 60M rope is sufficient for the rappel off the shoulder of the buttress (~80').

Protection 

Double cams from #1 TCU to #3 Camalot. Triples in .75 and 1 Camalots might be a good idea if you are leading at your limit. 2 bolt rap anchor.