Lord of the Thai's 5.12b
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| Type: | Sport, 5 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | Sam Lightner, Greg Collum, Larissa Collum , and a host of helpers |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | dry |
| Submitted By: | Sam Lightner, Jr. on Dec 20, 2006 |
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Photo taken by Bobby Model. This is the last pitch...
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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>
You can read about the warning here. There is extensive rebolting being done to replace suspect bolts with titanium glue-ins.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Description This is the best climb on the best wall in Thailand, and I have had many a climber tell me it was the best route they ever did. Enjoy.
P1: Start just right of the cave rappels and go up 80 feet to a ledge and anchor. (5.10b)
P2: Go up and through a bulge then some strenuous moves that put on a good pump. Work left to the left side of the large ledge. (5.11d)
P3: Go straight up from the belay to a bulge, then "brachiate" out it like a gibbon to wildly exposed finish. Fall off and you might need new shorts. (5.12a)
P4: The crux. First go up and through some hard bouldering moves, then traverse right to a steep headwall that is very pumpy. Finish at a stance. (5.12b)
From the stance, a few long moves take you up and left onto the arete, then left more to the cave and the rappels. (5.10d)
Location Up the center of the north face of the Thaiwand
Protection A dozen quickdraws and two ropes to get down. The bolts should be good now, as it's been redone 3 times.
Looking down from the second pitch on Lord of the ...
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Starting the top rappel circa 1994.
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12b pitch
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the 1rd pitch
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on the 2rd
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the 3rd pitch
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the 2rd pitch
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the long view .in the 3rd
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the big view..in 3rd pitch
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| Comments on Lord of the Thai's |
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By Matt Robertson
Feb 28, 2007
| The first two pitches can be linked. Doing so will be pumpy with runouts and/or rope drag. Pitch 3 is one of the finest bolted pitches on the planet.
In February 2007 Tim Emmett BASE-jumped off the top of this route after following every pitch free with a 25-pound pack. |
By sooba
Aug 18, 2007
| One of the all-time best routes ... also the last route I ever did. I climbed hard for 21 yrs, then onsighted it in 2002 and never climbed again. Go figure. Bobby Model rocks too. |
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 19, 2007
| I believe that the first pitch shares or is the same as the first pitch of "circus oz". If there are crowds or you're just flat not good enough to do all 5 pitches & top out (like uzz) you can rap from the first station. |
By alabama slamma
Dec 10, 2008
| the 7a+ pitch is one of best in Thailand. 7b pitch feels hard, but the exposure is out of this world. Railay must do!! |
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Aug 27, 2010
| Circus Oz is independant but right next to it. Great route as well. Slightly easier, maybe 11+. |
By Matt Pickren
Nov 12, 2010
| Last 2 pitches can also easily be combined.
Amazing route! This is the type of climbing you dream of. The confident .11 climber should not be intimidated, short, WELL protected cruxes. Sam has a thing for perfectly placed bolts. GO GET ON IT! |
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