Lord of the Slings 5.9+
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| Type: | Sport, 4 pitches, 600 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Jim and Christian Knight |
| Submitted By: | Lee Jensen on Aug 28, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: General location of Lord of the Slings.
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Description Lord of the Slings provides the easiest way to the top of Trilogy Buttress. After the ascent up the scree you are rewarded with increasingly awesome views of the canyon and valley. This is a must do route for any serious Rock Canyon climber. Pitch 1: The original start begins on the south face of the base of the first buttress. There are 4 to 5 bolts scattered along this 180' of moderate (5.6) climbing. You might want to bring some protection if runouts bother you, but be prepared for massive rope drag if you do. Another option is to split this pitch into two by adding some gear to a blot found on a large ledge about halfway up. Bolt anchors protect the belay at the top. Move across the sandy ridge to the start of the next pitch. Pitch 2: Belay from the base of the cliff where you can anchor into a bolt. Either go directly up the face to a small ledge, or move left on 4th class to gain the ledge. 80 feet of quality climbing past 7-8 bolts. Bolt anchors at the top. 5.9. Pitch 3: Belay across the exposed ridge to the start of the next pitch. Look for the second set of bolts from the left. Go up 70 feet past ~6 bolts to double bolt anchors on a small ledge. 5.9+ Pitch 4: Continue up another 100 feet to the summit. ~10 bolts on 5.9+. You can combine 3 & 4 if you use long runners on the first few bolts and have enough strength to swing through the overhanging sections.
Location Walk 10 minutes from the parking lot watching the north side of the canyon. After the large buttress containing Bad Bananas and Super Bowl Wall you will see Trilogy appearing up the scree slope directly to the east. Trilogyis identifiable because of its three distinct faces.
Protection Bolted with some optional gear on the first pitch. All pitches have bolted anchors. Bring lots of long runners.
Climbers on the last pitch of Lord of the Slings. ...
| Jim Knight starting on the upper face of Lord ...
| On a cold November morning, John Ross climbs pitch...
| Skyler Holman starts upward on the upper face afte...
| Topped out on Lord of the Slings. Great view from...
| Wayne Pullman on the way up.
| Wayne Pullman three-fourths of the way up the uppe...
| Today we were in the Misty Mountains!
| Cloud cover on P2 made for an eerie climb
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| Comments on Lord of the Slings |
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By Nich Cloward From: American Fork Aug 25, 2009 rating: 5.9
| Fun route. The first pitch is pretty spaced out, so extra protection is a good idea, although it is only 5.5-5.6 climbing, lots of ledges and positive holds. I didn't use anything extra, but long draws are a good idea. Doing the unnamed routes on the west face would be a funner, better way to go. Spacey first two bolts on the second pitch. The first bolt at practically at your feet, probably more for anchoring the belay, and the next one is off to the right a ways. A fall there before clipping that bolt would be. . .bad. pretty consistent 5.8 (in my opinion) after that to the anchor bolts. Pitch three didn't seem like it's own pitch, more like part of pitch four. Pitch four was the best part of the whole thing. Consistent holds. fun bulges to get past. I'd give it a 5.9, not a +. + for the fun and where it all was, but not for difficulty. Very exposed, so that added some good fun to it all. Very cool route. Would love to do it again, but start from the unnamed routes. |
By James Garrett Sep 6, 2009
| I think I like the limestone in Rock Canyon better than the south facing quartzite. It got my heart pumping, though....I will say that for it. |
By Matt Jesperson Nov 12, 2009
| I loved this route. We used the alternate first pitch that is to the left of the 5.6 standard. Good stuff. The exposure is fun on the third pitch. Great views up the canyon from the top. The route was easy to follow and the belay ledges are huge with superb anchors. |
By sawyer wylie From: utah Feb 19, 2010
| before you do this just make sure your going to be comfortable with the run outs, beacuse they can be really long! |
By Andrew Seegmiller From: Orem UT Feb 28, 2010 rating: 5.9 R
| I back up sawyer even though i had to lead the first pitch which was the sketchy one. Next time you get to lead the first pitch sawyer. it was way fun though. |
By Brandon Bishoff From: Austin, TX May 25, 2011 rating: 5.9- R
| First Multipitch I ever did. Fun Route. I've done this route twice now and got a little bit spooked when I couldn't find the bolts on the first pitch (they are extremely spaced out). Make sure you are climbing up the south face if you are having a hard time looking for the bolts because there is a spot where I thought the route could go two ways: go right onto the south facing wall if you feel that way. |
By Brandon Bishoff From: Austin, TX May 25, 2011 rating: 5.9- R
| First Multipitch I ever did. Fun Route. I've done this route twice now and got a little bit spooked when I couldn't find the bolts on the first pitch (they are extremely spaced out). Make sure you are climbing up the south face if you are having a hard time looking for the bolts because there is a spot where I thought the route could go two ways: go right onto the south facing wall if you feel that way. |
By Parker Alec Cross From: Provo, UT Sep 14, 2011
| Just take a couple pieces of protection for the first pitch and you're golden. The bolts are pretty run-out on that first one, so I just popped a couple cams in before making an exposed move. I think I used two cams, one between the 3rd and 4th, and one below the last in some horizontal cracks. There's tons of sweet options for pro placement to give you a little confidence with the run-outs, because, let's face it, without some extra protection it's like an R-rated pitch. You'd definitely deck if you took a fall. That being said, the climbing is super easy. And, as has been said, take a bunch of slings. On the last pitch we used 2 4' slings, and 5 or 6 2' slings, then draws the rest of the way to the chains. Makes the rope drag almost unnoticeable. |
By Tim Harper Nov 5, 2012 rating: 5.9+ PG13
| Overall, fun route. And / However: There first pitch (180 ft) has an anchor station mid-point. Therefore, it is possible to single-rope rap with a 60' rope. Bring a few cams, we did fine with a #2, #1, and a few smaller, although there was a few spots I wished I had my #3. There are some solid placements on the top part of the 1st pitch, but be sure to use slings to reduce rope drag. The 2nd pitch (80 ft, after the walk) is CHALKY. My partner and I both fell at the same spot because rock gave way. The anchors at the top of the 2nd pitch is an old tree and a single bolt. We used the bolt and put the rope around the tree for backup. However, it would be a good idea to give the rope a little tug after the first person rappels it and make sure the rope is not stuck, as the tree adds a lot of friction and you may accidentally cross the rope. We got our rope stuck here and almost had to climb back up the pitch again (but fortunately a party climbing behind us saved us the trouble). I took a few rocks to the helmet on this one. Don't leave your helmet home. |
By Aaron Shields From: Lehi, UT Mar 29, 2013
| This was my first multi pitch climb (I think). Loved it! Interestingly enough, the crazy runout between bolts on p1 didn't make me as nervous as the little scree spine you cross to get to p2. We split P1 and belayed from the ledge, which made the rope drag more manageable. I would NOT recommend doing the last two together without slings: I felt like I was pulling up my second, the rope drag was so bad. Great climbing, though. When we were getting ready to rap down, the flake I was standing on broke and shredded my leg, so be careful on those vertical flakes at the top! |
By John Ross From: Salt Lake City, UT Apr 27, 2013
| What a view from up here!
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