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Unsorted Routes:

Lord of the flies (free) AKA: Comrades in Slings (aid) 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Dave Groth (FFA) R.Kollath (Aid)
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring-fall
Page Views: 1,204
Submitted By: David A Groth on Oct 24, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Description 

Nice 75 foot over hanging dihedral. Tricky with some rests.


Location 

Between bird chimney & Mr lean


Protection 

Set of wires and cams, extra 1"



Comments on Lord of the flies (free) AKA: Comrades in Slings (aid) Add Comment
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By Rick Kollath
Jan 18, 2008

Roger Harkess and I climbed this in the very early 90s as an aid route. There was a huge block in the middle which Dave pulled out when cleaning it to make "Lord of the Flies." I think he thought that the block was so crazy loose and dangerous that nobody could've been there before, but either we were too daft to realize the danger we faced, or it just used to be a lot more solid.

Anyhow, other routes first climbed as aid routes are noted so I thought I'd get this in. For any doubting Thomases, find an old tattered copy of "Superior Climbs" by Dave Pagel and me and you'll find it listed on page 58 as "Comrades in Slings."

By the way, this route is SUPER GOOD now and many kudos to Dave Groth for a nice job cleaning it up. I've written before about routes having too many stars but I'd give this one 3.

By James Loveridge
From: Minneapolis, MN
Aug 1, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

Finally led this last week. It's ALL about the Left foot... AWESOME route! Got cleaned up a bit since Dave's FFA so it's less shattered and chossy at the bottom, a tad easier and has MUCH better gear. Highly recommended!

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
May 9, 2009
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b PG13

Fixed belay at ledge.

Upper portion of the route --which includes the crux-- is protected by two GI's and a pin.

Rest of climb takes nuts and cams to .75 BD.

By Mike Wallraff
From: My Van
Oct 1, 2012

Pin no longer there. Only 2 GI's for fixed gear.