All Locations > Washington > Northwest Region > San Juan, Fidal… > Mt Erie > (g) Main Wall > (e) Main Wall East

Lord of the Dance

Name: Lord of the Dance
Rating: 2.7

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in (e) Main Wall East

L › R R › L A › Z

	Boogie Shoes T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Dances With Ticks S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Dancin' with the Divine (aka the Dallas Kloke Memorial Route) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Fever Dreams T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	Forest Dweller T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Gotta Keep Dancin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Lord of the Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Oyster Run T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Restless Legs Syndrome S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Sunshine and Shadow S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

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Type:	Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 3 pitches
FA:	S. Trent, D. Kloke 2004
Page Views:	5,271 total · 50/month
Shared By:	Andrew Davidson on Jul 20, 2015 · Updates
Admins:	Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This is an awesome climb up the right side of the Main Wall, with excellent exposure. 3 mostly bolted pitches lead to the top.

P1 (5.7, 60ft, 5 bolts) - Start on the belay ledge and head up on good holds, staying in a corner. Route leads a bit towards the left to a sloping ledge with the anchor. You can place a .5 before the chains.

P1 (5.10a, 40ft, 4 bolts) - Begin with a short lieback below the roof, then sidepull/tension your way right. The crux comes at the second bolt and is very well protected. Finish on 5.8 blocky climbing to the anchor on a small ledge.

P3 (5.8, 80ft, 5 bolts) - An exposed and thought-provoking pitch. Start up some hollow flakes with good holds past 3 bolts. Place a few pieces and clip a couple bolts up and left through the crack/overhang/horizontal chimney. After pulling onto the headwall continue up 15 feet of 5.7 to the anchors.

Descent: 60m rope minimum. One double rope rappel or 2 single rope rappels.

Location

Back up in Gruesome Gully. Has a nice belay platform just below and left of Gotta Keep Dancin.

Can get there by traversing right on the ledges below Snag Buttress or follow the trail from Pigeon Stool Wall. There is a blank Sign hanging from a tree marking the turn to go up Gruesome Gully.