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Doc Holliday Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Doc's Holiday S 
Far Beyond Driven S 
Loose Women, Loose Rock T 
Pistol Pete S 
Quick on the Draw S 
Skyline Pillar S 
Unforgiven S 

Loose Women, Loose Rock 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Craig Britton & Matt Hoch, 1997
Season: Spring - Fall
Page Views: 677
Submitted By: susan peplow on Mar 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Located on the far right side of Doc Holliday wall. Climb past a few horizontal breaks and over a small roof to anchor.


Furthest right route on wall.


4 bolts, gear to 2.5", chain anchor.

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By C Miller
Mar 3, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Decent climbing up the pinnacle right of Pistol Pete/Doc's Holiday. I cleaned a lot of the loose rock off this years back, so don't be put off by the name. Also, this route shares the last bolt and anchors with Shoot At Will (5.8).
By Jason Partin
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 19, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Maybe some holds broke off, but this felt much harder than 5.9. The crux felt 5.10b... I was cursing on it, saying, "5.9 My Ass!" and slipped twice, even on top rope, at the transition from climbing straight up to angling right, where the holds were rounded and there's a slight bulge that makes getting feet difficult.
By Jeff Edge
Nov 29, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Definitely tough, think I only counted 2 or 3 bolts though + anchors. Funky moves in the pockets, but kinda cool. Would be a little scared of leading on gear due to the rock quality though.
By C Miller
Jun 7, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

There is currently a quick link (bail-off) on the 2nd bolt of this route.
By mhagny
Aug 27, 2015

With a little more cleanup -- knocking off the thin/scary/crumbly flakes that you're forced to use -- this would become a stellar route. Very enjoyable lead, but I agree that by Holcomb Valley grades it's a bit stiffer than .9+. Many of the 10b routes are easier than this one. Rock quality down low isn't very good for gear either, but easily overcome by clipping the second bolt on the route to the left.
By mhagny
Aug 31, 2015

I went back a few days later a knocked off some of the looser rock. There's still a couple things that could use a prybar and hammer, tho.

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