|Consensus:||YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]|
|FA:||Bill Dacier, Jim Sweat|
|Submitted By:||Ryan Myers on Feb 24, 2012|
|Comments on Loose Roof||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Daniel Evans
From: N Scottsdale, AZ
Jan 18, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seemed a bit difficult for 5.6 with two overhanging sections. I took two beginner climbers on this route and they both had an extremely hard time pulling the first overhang. Gear was decent but would probably prove to be a heady lead for a new trad leader. I belayed & rapped off the bolted anchor for "Aint nothing but a thang." Just make sure to place a piece at the top to protect the traverse to the anchor at the end. Bring two ropes for the rappel. We used two 70's but you may be able to get by with two 60m ropes.
Gear: Bring singles of .3 - .5; load up on sizes .75 - #3 (would recommend triples if you have them) & doubles of #4 to sew it up.