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Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
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Arcane Saw 
Bitter Route, The 
Breakfast Of Champions 
Cabana Boy 
Candy-O 
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana 
Captain Crunch 
Clyncke Punched a Hippy 
Day Dream 
Dispensary, The 
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation 
Flakey Floont 
Flower Quarter 
Greaser, The 
Hasting's Cutoff 
Lemon Line 
Little Fish that Die Abruptly 
Loose Lucy 
Lucid Dream 
Micky Mouse Die-Rect 
Mr. Natural 
Over 'ed Power Line 
Phee-nix 
Pickpocket 
Quantum Mechanics 
Real Men Eat Eggs 
Remention 
Rough Roof 
Roving for Love 
Schizophrenia 
Senora (??) 
Senorita 
Shadow 
Slimy Spoon, The 
Strangle Hold 
Sub Slab 
Suparete 
Super Natural 
Super Slab Direct Start 
Tiny Line 
Toys for Tots 
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille 
Velvet Arete, The 
Velvet Hammer 
Vertical Smile 
Waking Sleep 
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun 
Zombies on the Lookout 

Loose Lucy 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Steve Levin & Mike Munger, October 2007
New Route: Yes
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Pin [details]
Page Views: 315
Submitted By: Steve Levin on Oct 20, 2007
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  • Description 

    This tackles the creaky 20-foot roof between Mickey Mouse Die-Rect and Daydream. Observant climbers will have noted a piece of tat (now gone) at a fixed pin low down on the roof that has been there for years and years. (I have subsequently learned this was placed by Roger Briggs around 1969 on an aborted aid solo attempt.)

    Hike past Mr. Natural to wooden steps. Begin at the top of the steps.

    Climb an easy open book up the slab to a broken ledge. Start out the roof at a short, left-facing corner. Crank to a fixed pin, undercling to huge holds atop a flake, then power to buckets. Now pull up and over the lip. Continue up and left to the Daydream rappel.

    Our ground-up attempt quickly degenerated into an aidfest as we jettisoned loose rock and scared ourselves silly. The loose rock is (mostly) gone, but still be aware of what you pull on. Big holds, big moves and a crux gaining the lip.


    Location 

    The Lower West Face of Redgarden Wall.

    Rappel from a threaded block up and left on the upper wall, above the route Daydream.


    Protection 

    A few wires, small cams to 3.5".



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