Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
This tackles the creaky 20-foot roof between Mickey Mouse Die-Rect and Daydream. Observant climbers will have noted a piece of tat (now gone) at a fixed pin low down on the roof that has been there for years and years. (I have subsequently learned this was placed by Roger Briggs around 1969 on an aborted aid solo attempt.)
Hike past Mr. Natural to wooden steps. Begin at the top of the steps.
Climb an easy open book up the slab to a broken ledge. Start out the roof at a short, left-facing corner. Crank to a fixed pin, undercling to huge holds atop a flake, then power to buckets. Now pull up and over the lip. Continue up and left to the Daydream rappel.
Our ground-up attempt quickly degenerated into an aidfest as we jettisoned loose rock and scared ourselves silly. The loose rock is (mostly) gone, but still be aware of what you pull on. Big holds, big moves and a crux gaining the lip.
The Lower West Face of Redgarden Wall.
Rappel from a threaded block up and left on the upper wall, above the route Daydream.