Loose Lips 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | August '79 Jim Dunn, Martha Morris, Ken Sims, Alain Comeau |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on Mar 24, 2007 |
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Alexa on Loose Lips
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Description Lean off the block to clip the first bolt. Make a spooky step across the divide and climb past 2 more bolts on very small holds gaining a nice rest and more good pro. Climb down and left to a flake/crack that you will follow up and left to easier climbing and a two bolt anchor.
There are two cruxes in my opinion; the bolted section is definitely one of them and also the first part of the flake though not as hard it is challenging (small wires help protect this part).
It's a nice 5.10a link up to do Seventh Seal (10a) to Loose Lips, however you have many choices of approach.
2 rope rappel to the ground.
Location On the top of Ethereal Buttress, there lies a block stand facing the cliff on the right side of the block. There is a line of bolts up an alarmingly blank wall. That's your route.
Protection 3 bolts and a standard rack with some small wires. Double ropes are helpful.
By Casey Bald
Apr 14, 2007
| Doubles are a really good idea on this route as after the crux bolts the route jogs down and left a bit. If using one rope, bring a long runner to prevent rope drag on the gear placed above the bolts. This piece is also a must to protect your second from swinging thirty feet or so if he/she blows the moves after the bolts. |
By Adam Winters
Administrator
From: the Shire
Feb 13, 2009
| Stepping off the block and getting situated was definitely the crux for me. Mighty thin right there... |
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Apr 10, 2009
| Double ropes help, but...I don't recommend taking an inexperienced second on this one. The swinging fall after cleaning the second bolt, before the crack, is pretty heinous.
Oh, and bring LOTS of small wires. I brought only "some" and regretted it...scary... |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 11, 2009
| i seem to remember that with double ropes you can place a piece above the second bolt on the crux to protect the fall... the route has tricky rope work but it can be made safe for sure... |
By Anna C.
From: VT
Jun 3, 2009
| If you are short, like me at 5'6", stepping off that block is a *literal* leap of faith ... |
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 30, 2009
| years ago a friend of mine - Gwen - Literally fell across the void and pulled herself on to the wall- on lead. Gwen is 4'10" |
By burlap submariner
Apr 20, 2010
| above the last bolt make damn shure you traverse left. If you were to go up and right its 11+ and if you go up and left its 10+R both widely spaced bolted routes. |
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