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Superb route. Start on the flake right of the popular Pear Buttress.
P1: Thin lieback corner (9) up to a ledge (left of rap slings).
P2: Traverse 10ft. or so left to the second thin crack up the face. The first one is 10b. Start with a few difficult and insecure jams (9) then continue this pitch at solid 5.8 to a nice ledge past a flake.
P3: Lieback the nice, left-arcing, left-facing dihedral (9) to a big ledge.
P4: Easy slab climbing to a nook under The Cave.
P5: Exit The Cave through the slot to the left of the large block. Tricky move, but the holds are there....
Descent: Downclimb a gully to the East.
Full set wired nuts, Friends from #0.5-#4 with doubles in #0.5-#2, some micro cams or TCUs, and a few medium hexes.
Ben on the technical crux, pitch two.
Steve Knoll kickin it on a nice ledge
Greg Jackson on a variation (5.7) right of the cav...
Toproping pitch 1
Fran on the diagonal traverse near the top of pitc...
Top roping the first pitch of Loose Ends.
Pete just after the crux (IMHO), 1st pitch of Loos...
1st pitch of Loose Ends
Pear Buttress on the left....
No hands rest, first pitch.
|By Mike Sofranko|
Jul 10, 2001
One of my favorite routes anywhere. Hard to imagine 3 better pitches of 5.9. There is a trick to starting P2 that will make it considerably easier than jamming the crack straight on...
|By justin dubois|
From: Estes Park
Feb 24, 2002
The 5.9 first pitch is one of the best pitches on the Book. Sustained and steep!!!!!! It keeps you thinking all the way to the anchors.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 13, 2002
Big fingers makes the 1st pitch feel stiff for 5.9. Still, a great climb!
|By J. Thompson|
From: denver, co
Apr 9, 2002
If you are looking for a climb with a lot of liebacking this is the route for you! You'll love every pitch!
Sep 29, 2003
WOW! great route. continuous climbing the entire way on high quality stone. a must do for the grade!
|By Kirk Woerner|
Sep 30, 2003
This is one of the most fun climbs I've ever done. For a solid 5.9+ leader who can climb 5.10, it's perfect. The 5.10 crux pitch I thought was one move on bomber pro, sort of a boulder problem more than anything. Pitch one is tricky and difficult to do nicely especially first thing in the morning and is now my favorite warmup pitch on the wall. Bring lots of nuts and enjoy sinking them perfectly into good rock. I think Pitch 3 is the psychological crux simply because the big arching dihedral is intimidating, yet it protects well and the feature is beautiful on the walk down as well. Simply a must do in my book.
|By Errett Allen|
Oct 17, 2003
A variation to the third pitch is to go a bit less than halfway up the leaning dihedral, then traverse left across slab about 20-25 feet under a small overlap to a straight in, straight up crack. Then follow this crack (1 to 4 inch pro) back to the final few lieback moves in the leaning dihedral. Probably 5.9 also and good quality climbing.
|By Shane Zentner|
Apr 6, 2004
Awesome route. I led the first, third, and fourth pitches and enjoyed them all. Not one bad pitch on 'Loose Ends'. The second pitch, however, was the best pitch of the climb. Fun finger jams with good gear.
|By Holly Barnard|
Aug 2, 2004
This is a great route, that doesn't seem to get as much spray as J-crack and Femp. P1 has perfect finger locks and high friction for your feet. It was one of my first 5.9 leads and protects really well. It seems like the crack always tends to have about 2 pieces of fixed gear in it. A hint for P2 would be to think about your hand placements before slotting in gear. My partner made it much more difficult for himself than it needed to be by filling up his jams. Overall, every pitch is great fun. This route shouldn't be missed!
|By Lon Black|
Sep 9, 2004
Wonderful route. Be sure to bring long runners.
If you want to finish the climb with some spice, the right facing dihedral that a few meters left of the cave entrance. Above the little roof (where the dihedral ends), there are three cracks. All are flaring, and the pro isn't inspiring. Maybe there's an easier way up one of these cracks, but the way I went was scary. Just so you know what you're getting into, my girlfriend and I guess the dihedral part was 10a and the upper part went at 11b.
|By Clint Locks|
Jun 28, 2005
Running pitch 4 and the exit together seems appropriate, ONLY IF you eliminate rope drag by doing the 'Cave proper' exit which is, by the way, really cool, powerful, easy to protect-incl. a pin-and easier than it looks.
Jul 20, 2005
Climbed this last year and again the other day. Awesome climb. However, since last year someone has put a nest of slings with a couple of rap rings at the top of the first section (50 or 60 feet up). What is up with this?? Is this now a Top-roping area? If someone had to bail and left them I understand, but if these are intended so groups can now camp out on the first half of the first pitch of a 5-pitch climb then that's B.S.
Jul 28, 2006
Due to weather, my party and I decided to just do the first pitch of Loose Ends. It is one of my most favorite 5.9 leads ever. The pitch eats nuts- in fact, the whole pitch was lead with nuts. The cam placements just never felt good. Good thin finger placements the whole way with friction for feet. What a great climb! I enjoyed the slings at the top as it allowed us to do a single pitch and still enjoy Lumpy- weather and all.
|By W. Spaller|
From: Estes Park
Apr 12, 2010
3 very different pitches of tough 5.9. I felt the 3rd pitch was by far the hardest as it is difficult to place gear on the lie back. Awesome route.
From: Morrison, Co
Jun 4, 2010
Great route. If you're looking for a little harder 50 star link up:
1. Climb the first pitch of Loose Ends, belay.
2. The First Pitch of Visual Aids (10b).
3. The third dihederal pitch of Loose ends. Belay on ledge.
(belay move) Run it out up the slab and belay on the nice ledge left of the cave.
4. Climb the Excellent Cheap Date (10b).
5. Then Finish with the last pitch of Outlander (10c)!
Makes for a 50 star 5 pitch link up on the book!
Visually Loose, Outlandish Dates!