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Pirate Wall
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Dirty Bird 
Loose Canon 

Loose Canon 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 323
Submitted By: mtoensing on Jul 25, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: The route.

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Description 

This is the right route on the wall. It starts with 2 black bolts and is obvious. Good climb and very well-bolted. There are some decent rests as well as a little knee bar at the third bolt which isn't really needed but fun. There is potential for placing gear on the last part of the climb, as it is a great finger crack. So bring some cams if you're into that sort of thing.


Location 

On the main wall there are two sport climbs. I haven't climbed the left line, so I won't post anything about it. Loose Canon takes the right line of bolts. You can belay near the large tree on the ledge after scrambling to the base of the climb.


Protection 

9 bolts to anchors. There is a finger crack up top that will eat cams but there are bolts there as well. Very small cams would be needed.



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Start of the route.
BETA PHOTO: Start of the route.
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