|Penitente - Entrance Area
Twenty feet left of Persephone is a nice little sandy spot with several of the most moderate lines in the canyon, and with bolted 5.7 and 5.8 to be had these routes are oftentimes the most crowded routes at Penitente. Loony Tunes is the furthest right of the bunch and involves a bit of bolt protected crack climbing that leads up to some nice, clean crimping typical of the just under-vertical rock here. Now, since my own belay-spot in Hell has been solidly reserved in advance, I can pose the question "How did Kevin come up with this route name?" Was it, perhaps, that you could coax the word "laugh" out of his own name, was it derived from blots near a crack, or was it perchance a personal moment somehow related to the first ascent? Since I don't know Kevin, I may never learn the answer to this puzzle, perhaps someone else knows..... (Did I just get a Gold Star?)
Half a dozen draws and a rope.
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 9, 2003
Great moves through the crack. If you can't top it out to rappel down, you'll rip your rope trying to lower. It totally sucks. Its really hard up top so the whole time your up there trying to make the moves, your stressing your rope big time. Kind of a bummer cause man its good right off the ground.
|By Larry Earley|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 3, 2003
I really liked this climb. The top half is totally awesome thin climbing. This one tests year feet.The start is a whole different style requiring more strength. This one will test the leaders ability to step up on thin feet and crimpers and commit. Should be two stars.
|By Mike Anderson|
From: Dayton, OH
Dec 13, 2005
I wouldn't be so quick to assume that the FA put the bolts near the crack on this route. Bolts have been added on many a Penitente route, and it seems more so lately, especially on easier routes requiring gear.
Anyone know what the route is between this one and Persephone? The route that starts with a little stemming, then climbs up the left side of the tower that Persephone is on?
|By Jesse Morehouse|
Apr 24, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
EDIT. After scratching my head over this route location compared to the route description Im going to say it is a little vague but this is the climb IMMEDIATELY left of Persephone. It's so close you could almost start on one and switch to the other. After the first few bolts, they diverge significantly. It is a decent line, albeit with widely spaced welded coldshuts and/or bolts with a committing move or two between them. Probably a tad easier and less sustained than Persephone?