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Follow a climber's trail, from the front loop of Hidden Valley Campground to this rock, passing along the west side of Outhouse Rock. This climb is the obvious widening crack left of center on the west face.
Climb the crack which widens through a variety of sizes, becoming a chimney near the top. Belay on top and walk off down slabs on the south face.
A good exercise of climbing different sized cracks. The top wide section is not as bad as it looks and is made more secure by staying to the back of the crack.
Gear to 4"
Aug 21, 2003
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c
A great variety of crack and face climbing skills are exercised on this route. Good feet would be your best asset throught the crux and exiting the chimney above to the top. There is no pro once you exit the chimney though the climbing is easy. My rack: nuts, cams to 3.5".
Not as hard as Touch and Go
|By Steven Powers|
Aug 25, 2003
im sorry this climb does not deserve two stars, one star is pushin it.... i think.
|By Ryan Avery|
Mar 26, 2005
Yack, I did this thing on 2nd and wished I was on lead. Make sure your partner places the same as you otherwise you will be wishing for some other fate as you try to pull pro at the crux.
Overall, a good climb but stay away if you don't like chimneys as the one at the top is strenous getting in and out.
|By Adam Stackhouse|
Jan 28, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Arduous and yucky. Harder than Touch and Go because it's roundidly wide, crumbly and not very fun. Did it only because we were ticking all we could on the wall on an otherwise dope filled boring afternoon.
|By armando fimbrez|
From: rancho cucamonga
Feb 27, 2008
This climb has it all. Stemming, jambing and chimney climbing! All in one.
Mar 20, 2008
Fun, varied climbing. The more technical moves seemed to be at the bottom, then it eases off. The wider stuff at the top is real easy, and fun. Nothing loose or crumbly. Only pro necessary was Green, yellow, red aliens and a #3.5 camalot. Two stars.
|By Kyle Wills|
From: San Diego CA
Jan 4, 2009
Definitely not Round and Crumbly. A fun route, with great variety.
Mar 12, 2009
Its old school trad. Definitely more physical than touch and go. I give it at least 2 stars for the variety and the old school nature of its climbing.
Apr 29, 2009
Interesting variety of comments! I found this easier than Touch & Go. The chimney is pretty secure.
I really enjoyed the route, especially the variety of climbing on it - a few moves of almost everything.
Apr 29, 2009
A good varied climb. The wide and Chimney sections are pretty easy which detracts from the overall quality. 2 of 5 stars and well worth doing.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 26, 2014
This thing is a blast on lead. Lots of funky move options. Maybe not so fun for the second for some reason?