Looks Can Be Deceiving  5.8+ PG13

83 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet Consensus:  5.8+ [details] FA:  maybe ? Submitted By:  Greg Sievers on Jun 14, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Observatory Dome as seen from The Citidel.

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

The approach is best as a traverse from the top of the Citidel. It is maybe a 10 minute walk.

There is a huge, healthy ponderosa located just left of the start.

P1 - begin in a right-facing dihedral with a mossy bush about 15' up. Stem the 5.8 tricky start and go left around the bush to a huge chickenhead. Follow the remaining 5.6 crack for 140'. Belay comfortably to the right of 2 tiny ponderosa/bonsai trees.

P2 - follow an incredibly delightful, 5.6, finger tip crack along a rising ramp. It takes C3s/Aliens nicely. Move 30' back into an alcove and climb the final deep 5.8 dihedral. It is steep, sharp, and a bit spicy at the top as you mantle onto the true summit.

One may also choose to set a station after 130' in the alcove and make the final 40' dihedral the 3rd pitch.

Location 

This is on the east side of the Dome. It is 40' left of the big cleft mentioned in Deep Impact.

Protection 

Bring a full single rack to #4 BD. C3s are nice for the start of the 2nd pitch.