Beautiful sandstone formation with a huge amphitheater and large window.
Getting There
Take Highway 191 south of Moab for ~23-25 miles (<1 mile past La Sal Junction). You are looking for a gravel road on your right (west) known as Hatch Wash road. Turn right and travel west 1.4 miles. Turn left onto a deep sand 'road' for 0.3 miles. Before a ranch fence, turn right and follow the 'road' to the base of Looking Glass. 10 second approach.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Looking Glass Rock:
Three pitches of easy runnout friction climbing. Pitch 1 start bellow the toe of the ridge bellow a short corner. Climb the corner to a flat ledge with a bolt. Continue up to another bolt in a white rock band, then to the third, and finish with a short crack to the 2 bolt anchor.(145ft). Pitch 2 Climb past 3 bolts on the narrow ledge, past the smearing crux around the 2nd bolt, to the 2 bolt anchor at a good stance (130 ft). Pitch 3 Finish up with an unprotected 4th class scramble to a two bolt ...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
easy climbing even with the run out. we had to take the ranch road because the other road had equipment stuck in it. turns out if you have a 4x4 thats the ticket. you can park at the start of the climb. also no worries about getting to the rap anchors. we just did an easy walk around to them. absolutely no need to rap or lower to them.
Three friends and I climbed this on Janurary 8th which was a beautiful day, and made for pleasent "climbing" and an awesome rappel. This landform has probably the most thrilling rappel I have ever been on. However, the main purpose of my post is say that we built a cairn and added a modest summit register. It is at the very highest point of the rock(which requires more scrambling after the last pitch) in a bottle. We had a fun relaxing time on this as a rest day climb after a nerve racking, snowy epic on Castleton the previous day. Hope to see lots of entries the next time I'm up there.
We showed up to climb this today and there were approx. 20 rattle snakes lining the small shelf around the base of the route. There was one (about 3 feet long) sitting right in a small hole right at the start of the route that would easily strike the hand or leg of anyone climbing the route. We tried to move it with a stick and it only made it angry so we packed back up and left. Be careful!
I am headed there this weekend and don't have a 70m rope. I think I will do a biner block and tie whatever gear/pack I have to the other end as a counterweight. If the rap is free hanging the other end of the rope should come right down once I am off rappel at the bottom. In theory anyway.
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